This paper presents a low-cost solution to generate power for corded tools without the need for a gas-powered generator. By installing a power inverter to your truck battery, you can have access to an AC receptacle wherever you go.
Materials Required:
To implement this solution, the following materials are required: 1-in. chase nipples and bushings, 1/0 cable (red and black), 100Ah valve regulated lead acid (VRLA) absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery (optional), 200 amp fuse block/fuse kit, DC to AC inverter, flexible plastic conduit, isolation relay (for optional second battery), and basic hand tools.
Installing an AC inverter in your truck can provide up to 1,800 watts of power, making it an ideal source for plug-in tools. The basic setup is inexpensive, costing around $450, while the upscale version with an auxiliary battery and isolator relay costs around $700. The installation process takes only a few hours and requires simple hand tools. By installing three fuse blocks – one between the main battery and the relay, another after the relay, and the third between the auxiliary battery and the inverter, the system is well protected.
Component Procurement
First, install 1-inch chase nipples and locknuts into the holes in the bed and the box. Thread the “smurf” tube and cable through the nipples and connect them to the inverter. There are two types of AC inverters available, modified sine wave and pure sine wave, with the former being less expensive and suitable for power tools, while the latter is suitable for powering computers, televisions, or portable tool battery chargers. Ensure that the pure sine wave inverter has overload, over-temperature, over-and-under voltage and fault protection, as well as neutral isolation.
Additionally, you will need a 200-amp fuse block/fuse kit (two if adding a second battery and three if adding a battery isolator), and separate lengths of 1/0 cable for positive and negative connections. Although optional, adding a 100Ah valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA) absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery prevents alternator overheating and helps maintain voltage under heavy loads. An isolation relay can also be installed at the same time to prevent draining the main battery.
Selecting a Mounting Location
To prevent overheating, mount the inverter in a location with sufficient airflow, such as the truck bed toolbox or on the floor behind the driver’s seat. It is also recommended to keep the toolbox lid or cab door open when using the inverter.
Cable Installation
As each vehicle has unique characteristics, there is no universal scheme for cable routing. Nevertheless, it is essential to ensure that both cables are kept clear of the engine block, pulleys, steering components, exhaust manifold, and pipes. A separate negative cable should be run from the inverter to the main battery. To safeguard the cables, especially the positive one, from damage under the vehicle, they should be encased in a flexible 3/4-inch plastic conduit, often referred to as “smurf” conduit by electricians. This product, such as the Carlon Flex-Plus Blue, is obtainable in 10-foot lengths at home centers in the electrical department. Two 1-inch holes need to be drilled in the truck bed and two in the toolbox to mount electrical fittings (see Photo 1). The inverter should then be installed.
Optionally, the battery isolation relay can be installed under the hood and the trigger wire connected to a switch-powered “hot” wire. The optional auxiliary battery should be mounted close to the inverter. Refer to Figure A for the comprehensive wiring diagram.
Battery Connection
Fuse block should be secured
Clamp the cable ring terminals with serrated washers, install the fuse, and tighten the nut. Then attach the positive cable to a fuse block before connecting it to the battery. Finally, connect the negative cable to the battery to complete the installation process.
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