Improved Upgrades for Utility Trailers

Most utility trailers are manufactured with sufficient functionality to meet local safety regulations (if any) and your wallet. However, they can be challenging for users as they often lack factory constraints or loading ramps, and factory tail lights typically use incandescent bulbs that need frequent replacement. In an informal survey of approximately 30 trailer owners, trailer light failures were the top frustration, followed by rusted nuts that make changing ball sizes, stuck ball mounts, and difficult-to-tighten trailer loads. Nearly everyone wished for a simpler way to align trailer connectors with hitches, especially in the dark. Therefore, we conducted research and developed five cool new products that are expected to eliminate these troubles.

This paper includes solutions to these problems, as well as a wide range of upgrades that will make your trailer transportation easier and safer. We will also show you safety upgrades that can prevent trailer theft. Most of these multi-purpose trailer accessories can be assembled and installed using socket sets, drills, saws, and screwdrivers. Find the piping and hardware components at home centers or hardware stores, and safety items at any utility trailer parts store or online. Choose the upgrades you like, with costs ranging from a few dollars to several hundred dollars.
Tail lights bounce around, immerse in lakes, and get soaked in road salt. Therefore, it is not surprising that bulb filaments break and sockets corrode, leading to a lot of lighting failures. Sealed LED trailer lights are a brilliant solution.
This submersible LED trailer light with wiring harness and license plate bracket fits existing mounting holes perfectly. Before removing the old light, note the wiring scheme. Then install the new light and make waterproof connections according to our wiring photos.
Wiring the Lights.When installing the new lights, do not use cheap crimp connectors to splice the wires. They will give you a lot of trouble when the crimp connectors start to corrode in a few years. Do the job right the first time – solder all electrical connections and seal each connection with a small diameter heat-shrink tubing. Then seal the wire bundle with a larger diameter shrink tube. Apply liquid electrical tape to the end of the larger tube to complete the waterproof seal. Most automotive parts stores offer heat-shrink tubing kits and liquid electrical tape.
Upgrade 2: Adjustable Ball Mount.If you own multiple trailers with varying tongue heights or ball sizes, you know how difficult it can be to find a replacement for rusty or stuck balls or ball mounts that fits all your trailers. Enter the Rapid Hitch, an aluminum ball mount that can tow up to 10,000 pounds. It is easy to adjust, never rusts, and never gets stuck in the receiver hitch – ever! It’s a bit pricey (around $200), but more durable than your truck or trailer. The hitch comes with three “drop” sizes and several dual-ball combinations. Simply remove your old ball mount and slide this one in place during installation. Purchase the matching lock pin kit to secure your investment. Trust us, someone will want to steal this baby.
Upgrade 3: Trailer Hitch Lights.This is a no-brainer – you never have a flashlight when you need one. If you’ve ever loaded a trailer in the dark or hitched a trailer to your vehicle, you know it’s not fun. These magnetic LED tap lights (Energizer Hard Case Professional 3-LED Area Light; available at opticsplanet.com) are detachable, so they won’t get damaged. Simply mount the backplate in the best position for illumination during loading and hitching, then snap the light onto the backplate. Unlike most tap lights, these babies are weatherproof. But be sure to stow them before takeoff. The magnets may not hold them in place on bumpy roads.
Upgrade 4: Convenient Tie-Down System.No matter what you load onto your trailer, you always seem to be looking for a secure spot to tie down your straps. The E-Track system eliminates this problem. Bolt the tracks onto the trailer floor and then clip in various ratchet straps or rope anchor fittings. We especially like the wood beam socket. Place the socket along the track at any position and insert a board to prevent cargo from shifting. E-Tracks can also be used to mount tie-downs to the side of the trailer, but only if the trailer side is metal reinforced and rock-solid.

Upgrade 5: Quick Coupler.Moving an empty trailer onto a hitch ball is easy. But heavy-duty trailers require you to back the truck up to the trailer. You know how tricky it is to maneuver the unseen hitch into the trailer’s “capture zone.” We found a new type of coupler that features an “auto-catch jaw” and alignment rod to make backing up to the trailer easier. Simply extend the foldable positioning rod and watch them through the rear window. If you’re within the coupler’s 5-inch range, its jaw will automatically “catch” the ball and close the latch mechanism. But be sure to get out and install the lock pin before hitting the road with your trailer.
Upgrade 6: Tricks of the Trade for Plumbers.Have you ever attempted to transport long or fragile items, such as pipes, drywall corner beads, or drip edges? First, you must tie them together. Then, you must secure the bundle to the trailer. Forget it! Instead, build a unit with the same type of drill used by plumbers. Simply slide in the long item, twist on the lid, secure the red flag, and you are ready to go. Construct the entire unit for about $25.
Purchase a 10-foot, 4-inch length of PVC pipe, an end cap, a clean-out adapter, PVC cleaner and adhesive, and four J-shaped hooks. Pour and glue the end cap and clean-out adapter. Utilize wasted space on the side of the trailer to mount the pipe there. Secure the four J-shaped hooks to the side of the trailer and snap the pipe into place. Tie down the drill for added safety.
Upgrade 7: Adding a Winch.Boaters use winches to pull their boats onto a trailer. You can also install one on a utility trailer. It will save your back and eliminate the need for a helper. Simply wrap the strap around the heavy object, then rock it forward along the slope toward the front of the trailer. A 20-foot winch with strap and hook costs about $35 to $40. Bolt it to the trailer A-frame or tongue.
Upgrade 8: Adding a Ramp.Since you can lift it up with wheels, why lift heavy objects? Build this ramp using an aluminum ramp kit (such as Highland No. 0700500; available at summitracing.com) and 2x8s. Simply measure the height of the trailer deck and cut the 2x8s to the recommended length. Install the aluminum top and bottom pieces onto each board. Then space the ramps to fit the equipment you most frequently tow. Install the locking pin, secure the ramp in place, and load.
Upgrade 9: Yard Tool Holder.Gardeners and lawn care professionals always drag rakes, shovels, brooms, and other tools by installing vertical pipes at the front of the trailer. Here’s our version. Cut a 36-inch, 1-1/2-inch length of PVC pipe and glue on end caps. Then drill a hole in each end cap to provide drainage. Connect the pipes using PVC electrical conduit tape and nuts. If you plan to use these pipes in the winter, secure them with metal straps – PVC becomes brittle and will shatter in cold weather. For added safety, attach bungee cords to each tool.