Home » Archives for Jaquan Green » Page 2
Author

Jaquan Green

Parts

The cost of owning an electric car

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Electric vehicles (EVs) are often touted as cost-saving alternatives to internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicles due to their lower operating costs and reduced maintenance requirements. Consumer Reports has found that EVs cost less to operate over their lifetimes than their ICE counterparts, thanks to cheaper electricity and fewer moving parts that wear out, reducing maintenance. However, while EVs do not require oil, air, or fuel filter changes, they still require periodic maintenance for components such as brakes, rotors, and wiper blades.


Despite the cost-saving benefits of owning an EV, there are hidden costs to consider. For instance, according to Kelley Blue Book, as of September 2022, the average EV costs nearly $17,000 more than a comparable ICE vehicle. However, AAA estimates that EV owners can save up to $1,300 in annual maintenance costs and an additional $700 to $800 in fuel costs compared to their ICE counterparts. Assuming an average ownership period of almost nine years, this translates to savings of nearly $19,000.
However, there are additional costs to consider when purchasing an EV, such as higher annual car insurance premiums (up to $400 more than a comparable ICE model) and potential voiding of the manufacturer’s warranty if owners perform their own repairs or use non-authorized repair shops. These factors can result in costlier repair bills. As such, it is essential to consider all of the potential costs and benefits before making a decision to purchase an EV.
When considering the cost of electric vehicle (EV) charging stations, it is important to take into account the kilowatt (kW) output and features of the charger. Level 1 120-volt battery chargers typically cost between $200 and $600, while Level 2 240-volt chargers range from $500 to $2000, plus installation costs if hardwiring is necessary, which can also range from $500 to $2000.
How Much Does It Cost to Charge an Electric Vehicle?
The cost of charging an electric vehicle (EV) depends on various factors, such as the level of charger used, location, time of day, temperature, and the state of battery charge or degradation. Based on the national average cost of electricity, which was 17 cents per kilowatt-hour (kWh) in 2021, an EV with an Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) rating of 50 kWh/100 miles would cost $8.50 to travel 100 miles, or 8.5 cents per mile. In comparison, a traditional internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle getting 30 miles per gallon at $3.50 per gallon would cost $11.67 for the same 100 miles, or 11.7 cents per mile. While some public EV charging stations are free, rates for Level 3 and Level 2 charging stations typically range from 30 to 70 cents per kWh and 20 to 25 cents per kWh, respectively. Some stations offer a monthly subscription service, but fees may be charged for vehicles that remain plugged in after charging is complete.
The cost to replace an EV battery, which is typically covered under warranty for at least eight years or 100,000 miles, ranges from $5,000 to $15,000 or more in parts and labor if the vehicle is out of warranty. With proper care, an average EV battery should last 200,000 miles, or 10 to 20 years. While EV batteries are recyclable, the process is slow, complex, expensive and environmentally unfriendly. However, new technologies and second-life applications funded by the Bipartisan Infrastructure Law offer hope for more economical and ecologically responsible EV battery recycling in the future.
Expect to pay $100 to $400 more for a set of tires for an EV than for regular tires, as they are designed to carry the extra weight of an EV’s battery and motors. EV tires offer excellent acceleration, better traction, less rolling resistance, and a quieter ride due to their ability to deliver instant torque to the wheels/tires.

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Motorcycle

A Dream Motorcycle Workshop

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Building the Ultimate Dream Garage: Design and Construction for Auto and Motorcycle Enthusiasts.
Abstract: This article describes the design and construction of a dream garage for auto and motorcycle enthusiasts, with a focus on flooring, heating, electrical, and communication features. The garage, which measures 28 by 40 ft., was built to accommodate a wide range of vehicles, including cars, motorcycles, lawn mowers, air compressors, and weed trimmers. The snap-together polypropylene floor tiles provide a durable, chemical-resistant, and self-draining surface that is comfortable to stand on for long periods. The ceiling-mounted space heater ensures year-round comfort without consuming valuable floor space.

Multiple electrical outlets were installed every 32 in. to minimize the need for extension cords, and two separate circuits were created to avoid overloading. In addition, the garage is equipped with a computer and internet access, a telephone, a wall-mounted television, and a stereo system.


Keywords: dream garage, auto and motorcycle enthusiasts, flooring, heating, electrical, communication
For many auto and motorcycle enthusiasts, the garage is more than just a place to park their vehicles. It is a sanctuary, a workshop, a showroom, and a place to relax and socialize. In this article, we describe the design and construction of a dream garage that offers comfort, convenience, and functionality to the discerning enthusiast. The garage is equipped with snap-together polypropylene tiles, custom cabinets, work areas, space heating, and plenty of electrical outlets. The result is a space that is both practical and stylish, designed to showcase the vehicles while providing a comfortable environment for their owners.
The garage flooring is an important element of the design, as it needs to be durable, easy to clean, and comfortable to stand on for long periods. The snap-together polypropylene floor tiles meet these requirements, and their modular construction allows for customizable patterns, such as checkerboard, stripes, or borders. The tiles are chemical-resistant, self-draining, and provide insulation against cold concrete floors. Furthermore, tile installation does not require downtime for drying and curing, as is the case with paints and coatings.

Choice Home Warranty — Get a Free Quote


A ceiling-mounted space heater is used to maintain comfortable temperatures in the garage throughout the year. This allows the owners to use the garage as a workshop or gathering place, even during the colder months. The heater also helps to conserve valuable floor space, as it is mounted on the ceiling. In addition, the owners have partitioned off the “collecting” side of the garage from the “day to day” garage with a tarp during the coldest part of the winter, to help conserve energy.
The garage is equipped with numerous electrical outlets, installed every 32 inches to minimize the need for extension cords. Two separate circuits were created to avoid overloading, ensuring a steady and reliable power supply. A good-size window and ceiling-mounted 4-ft. fluorescent lights provide excellent general lighting, while a trouble light with a retractable cord reel provides task lighting wherever needed. All of these features combine to make the garage a comfortable and well-lit workspace.
The garage is also equipped with various communication and entertainment features. The owners use a computer with internet access for research and online parts ordering, a telephone, a wall-mounted television, and a stereo system. These features allow them to stay connected and entertained while working on their vehicles or spending time in the garage.
The dream garage described in this article is the ultimate space for auto and motorcycle enthusiasts, designed to meet their unique needs and preferences. The snap-together polypropylene floor tiles, ceiling-mounted space heater, multiple electrical outlets, and communication and entertainment features all contribute to the functionality and comfort of the garage.
A pneumatic motorcycle lift can be used for working on bikes without having to bend and stoop. In order to organize his hobby items, Chris chose to use sturdy yet affordable MDF cabinets. The 24-in.-deep cabinets were able to fit in the extra-deep garage, but are often difficult to accommodate in standard-size garages that need to fit vehicles. All cabinets are mounted on legs or on the wall to prevent moisture damage and allow for easy cleaning underneath. A half-height cabinet in one corner maximizes space usage by fitting a compressor, jack, heater, circuit box, ladder, and miscellaneous items. A long bank of 12-in.-deep cabinets, mounted above head level, provides storage for less frequently used items.

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Detailing

What is the cause of my brakes making a squeaking noise?

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Brake squeal is a frequent issue that can be caused by worn brake hardware, pads, or rotor finish. However, are noisy brakes hazardous or merely bothersome? Brakes are a crucial safety component of a car that includes various parts and components. They are designed to be noisy when they’re going bad, which is a good thing. It’s always better to discover that your brakes are going bad by hearing a squeak than by not being able to stop. Fortunately, most brake noises are normal and do not indicate a problem.

Constant or unusual brake noise can be a sign that the brake hardware needs lubrication or that components in the brake system are wearing out and need servicing. Therefore, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. Take a common sense approach and check your brakes if they’re persistently noisy or if the noise appears to be increasing.
Brake pads are composed of a friction material attached to a steel backing plate. When the brakes are applied, fluid pressure causes the brake calipers to clamp the pads down on the disc rotors, creating heat. This heat (friction) is created by the pads pressing against the rotors, which slows and eventually stops the car.
Brakes squeak, squeal or screech when vibrating brake pads produce a sound in a specific frequency. That sound, however, doesn’t mean that your brakes are failing. If your brakes grind or grab, or your car pulls to one side when braking, that’s a different story. In those cases, ask a mechanic to check your brakes immediately.
There are specific causes of brake noise, such as temperature changes, wear indication, and the type of brake pad used. Brake pad friction material can be made from composite materials, including semi-metallic, non-asbestos organic (NAO), low-metallic NAO, and ceramic. Semi-metallic pads have excellent stopping power but are noisy and cause premature rotor wear.
Non-asbestos organic (NAO) brake pads effectively reduce vibration, but wear out quickly. Low-metallic NAO brake pads exhibit excellent stopping power, but are noisy and produce dust. On the other hand, ceramic brake pads, while the most expensive option, offer good stopping power, produce minimal rust or dust, and generate less noise.
Worn, broken, or missing brake hardware, such as shims, clips, springs, or loose fasteners, are the primary causes of brake noise. These issues can cause the pads to drag on the rotors, overheat, vibrate, and wear unevenly and more rapidly.
It is essential to ensure safety when repairing brakes, including wearing a mask, safety glasses, and gloves.
Pro tips for fixing squeaking brakes include always replacing all brake hardware, covering the backing plates with anti-squeal lubricant or insulating gel, and cleaning all hardened steel parts with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and a plastic brush. All contact points should be cleaned of rust and corrosion, and mating parts and slide pins should be lubricated with special brake grease or anti-seize compound. To avoid damaging the pad friction surface, do not apply lubricants or greases. Finally, before installing the wheel, the rotors (not the pads) should be thoroughly cleaned with brake cleaner to remove any grease or fingerprints, and a pan should be placed underneath.

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Utility Trailers

How to Remove a Trailer Hitch Ball？

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Remove a rusted trailer hitch with penetrating fluid and an air chisel, not a sledgehammer. It’s easier and won’t bend or break anything.

Remove a rusted ball mount
When the ball mount on your trailer hitch is rusted in place, don’t whack at it with a sledgehammer. Here’s what to do instead. Buy a can of CRC Freeze Off penetrating spray and an air chisel fitted with a “hammer bit.” The air chisel will run about $15 and the extra bit will be about $8. Spray the opening to the hitch receiver. This newest style of penetrating fluid chills the metal, causing it to contract to help break the rust seal. Then use an air chisel fitted with a hammer bit to knock everything loose. The air hammer will break up the rust, spread the penetrant and free up the ball mount. Once it’s free, just tap the rusted ball mount out with a hammer. If you plan to reuse the rusty mount, coat it with a rust converter or waterproof marine grease.
Polished:To remove a rusted trailer hitch or ball mount, using a sledgehammer is not recommended due to the potential for bending or breaking the hitch. Instead, the use of penetrating fluid and an air chisel can be a more effective and safer method. A can of CRC Freeze Off penetrating spray, along with an air chisel fitted with a “hammer bit” (costing approximately $15 and $8, respectively), can be used. To begin, apply the penetrating spray to the opening of the hitch receiver. This type of fluid causes the metal to contract, which aids in breaking the rust seal. Next, use the air chisel with the hammer bit to loosen the rust and spread the penetrant, ultimately freeing the ball mount. Once it is free, the rusted ball mount can be removed by tapping it out with a hammer. If the rusty mount is to be reused, it is recommended to coat it with a rust converter or waterproof marine grease.
Tools and Materials Required for this Project
To ensure efficiency and minimize frustration, it is recommended to prepare all necessary tools and materials before starting the DIY project.
Tools:
Air compressor
Hammer
Air chisel
Hammer bit

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Truck

8 Tips for Changing Your Own Oil That I Wish I Had Known

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Consider these recommendations and learn from prior errors before beginning an engine oil change. Although some of these suggestions may appear self-evident, they can all make your DIY oil changes go a lot more smoothly.

Preparation is key. Reviewing the car manual before performing any maintenance is a no-brainer, but it’s also a good idea to examine the car itself the day before the oil change. Are there any other pieces blocking access to your oil filter, and if so, what instruments will you require to safely remove and reinstall them?

Newer vehicles typically have oil filters near the top, but older models are not always designed with convenience in mind. My first two cars, both mid-1990s Fords, had oil filters buried deep beneath several hoses. Accessing those filters took a lot of trial and error and ended up taking more time than the actual draining and replacing of the oil itself.

When lifting the car, avoid soft metal or plastic. Most cars have notches or a jacking plate where you can safely lift the car with your jack. If your car has a jacking plate underneath the engine, be sure to triple-check that your jack is not touching anything else beneath the hood.

Both steel and aluminum jacks are acceptable. Aluminum jacks have a reputation for being weaker and less secure than steel, but they will function just as well. If you’re on a tight budget, steel jacks are less expensive than aluminum. In any case, either material will suffice.

When changing the oil filter, apply oil to the filter seal. You can do this using a dab of oil on your fingertip. This step is important because it helps to keep the seal in place when you start the engine. I received a stern lecture from my father the first time I attempted to do an oil change solo and tried to skip this step.

Place a metal drip pan underneath the oil collection container to protect the garage floor or driveway. It’s light, easy to clean, and even makes sliding the container around easier because you can (slowly) slide the sheet around without being under the car.

Use an oil collection container that can also be used for transportation. Make sure to use a collection container that is essentially a portable jug. Pouring used oil from a collection pan into a wobbly funnel, which is sure to make a mess, is not a good idea.

Do not dispose of the used oil filter in the trash. My father threw used oil filters straight into the trash, but now they can be recycled once the oil has been removed. Drain the oil from the used filter by puncturing the top dome with a screwdriver. Then, let the oil drain into your collection container. iRecycleOil.com, a directory provided by Earth911, will tell you where you can recycle used oil and oil filters.

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Motorcycle

How to Upgrade Motorcycle Handlebars?

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Consider replacing your motorcycle’s handlebars for a modern look. This simple upgrade can save you hundreds of dollars if you do it yourself.
If you’re still using outdated “ape hanger” handlebars from the 1970s, it’s time to update. I’ll guide you on how to replace your handlebars and save about $200.

Start the project by measuring your current handlebar diameter. Choose your preferred handlebar style, but verify with the manufacturer or your dealer that it provides enough turning clearance to avoid hitting the gas tank.
You will also need shorter brake, clutch, and throttle cables, as well as a shorter brake line. Your local dealer can send your old cables for professional modification, or you can buy new cables (at approximately twice the price).
To begin, remove the headlight to access the harness splice area. Then, disconnect the wires from the handlebar harness. Next, drain the brake fluid reservoir and disconnect and remove the brake line, switches, levers, and throttle. Finally, remove the left hand grip, unbolt the handlebar, and move it to the workbench.
To update the appearance of your motorcycle, replacing the handlebars with a newer style can be a simple and cost-effective upgrade if you do it yourself. If you are still using outdated “ape hanger” handlebars from the 1970s, it may be time for a change. This project begins with measuring the diameter of your current handlebars and selecting a new style that offers enough clearance to avoid the gas tank. Shorter cables and brake lines are also necessary. You can either purchase new ones or have your old ones professionally modified at your local dealer. You will need to disconnect the wires from the handlebar harness, drain the brake fluid reservoir, and remove the switches, levers, and throttle before removing the old handlebars. After modifying the control brackets, reconnect the wiring harness and install the shorter cables and brake hose. Secure the wiring harness with zip ties and top off the brake fluid reservoir. Before you take the motorcycle for a spin, test all electrical connections and the brakes. To avoid wasting time and becoming frustrated, gather the necessary tools and materials beforehand, including a micrometer, compressed air gun, and rotary tool.
To give your motorcycle a more modern appearance, upgrading the handlebars with a new design is an easy and cost-effective DIY project. If you’re still using old-fashioned “ape hanger” handlebars from the 1970s, it might be time to switch to a newer style. This project starts with measuring the diameter of the current handlebars and selecting a new style that provides sufficient clearance to avoid the gas tank. Additionally, you’ll need to obtain shorter cables and brake lines, which you can either purchase or have modified professionally by your local dealer. To replace the old handlebars, you must first disconnect the wires from the handlebar harness, drain the brake fluid reservoir, and remove the switches, levers, and throttle. Then, after modifying the control brackets, reconnect the wiring harness and install the shorter cables and brake hose. Secure the wiring harness using zip ties, and top off the brake fluid reservoir. Before taking the motorcycle for a ride, ensure that all electrical connections and the brakes are tested. To save time and avoid frustration, make sure to gather all the necessary tools and materials beforehand, including a micrometer, compressed air gun, and rotary tool.

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Parts

EV Charger Types: Which One is the Best?

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

When bringing an electric vehicle home, it is crucial to understand the types of chargers available. Electric vehicle (EV) chargers are classified into three categories: Level 1, Level 2, and Level 3. The charging speed increases with each level.


A Level 1 charger typically comes with the purchase of an EV. While these chargers are portable, they take a long time to recharge the battery. In comparison, a Level 2 charger is much faster than Level 1, and both work on the same principle. The alternating current (AC) from an outlet or electric panel is sent through the EV power port to the onboard charger, which converts it into direct current (DC) for battery charging. Tesla vehicles come with dual Level 1/Level 2 chargers.
Level 3 chargers are designed for public stations and provide much more power than Level 1 and Level 2 chargers. Level 3 chargers convert AC to DC, bypassing the onboard charger and directly delivering DC to the battery.
To make EV charging less complicated, EV owners can purchase chargers with helpful additional features. These can include adjustable ampere settings to “top-off” a charge, smart chargers with Wi-Fi/Bluetooth enabled apps, and cables with lengths suitable for easily reaching the charging port. Heavy-duty wire can be used to offer less resistance and reduce the likelihood of overheating. The chargers can also have mounting brackets to keep cables safely off the floor and secured in the outlet, indicators to monitor charging status, and over-voltage protection to prevent overcharging and overheating. Dual 120- and 240-volt capabilities and UL-listed and Energy Star rated chargers are also factors to consider. EV owners should also take into account warranty length and support hours when choosing the right charger.
The SAE J1772 connector is the industry standard for electric vehicles. The Combined Charging System (CCS) offers a second standard that allows AC/DC charging on the same port. Tesla employs a proprietary connector design, but J1772 and CCS adapters are available.
Level 1 Chargers:Most electric vehicles come with a basic Level 1 120V charger, which may require 40 hours to fully charge a 60-kilowatt-hour (kWh) battery.
Pros:Convenient; can plug into a standard household 120-volt outlet (with a 20-amp circuit recommended).
Simple do-it-yourself cord management installation.
Best for EV owners in apartments or condominiums.
Easy to use and portable.
Cheapest among all chargers, ranging from $200 to $600.
More expensive models offer dual Level 1 and Level 2 charging capabilities.
Adheres to the generic SAE J1772 connector standard.
Cons:Extremely slow.
Has a driving range of about five miles per charging hour, or approximately 40 miles on an overnight charge.
May require charging connection adapters.
Lacks many of the features listed above.
Level 2 Chargers:
If you drive more than 100 miles a day, consider investing in a Level 2 charger for your home. While it may be costly, it significantly reduces the hassle of home charging. Level 2 chargers provide the same charge as public Level 2 charging stations.
Pros:
Significantly faster than Level 1 chargers, taking about 10 hours to fully recharge a drained 60 kWh EV battery.
Has a driving range of approximately 25 miles per charging hour, or about 200 miles on an eight-hour charge.
Easy to use and many mid-priced models come loaded with features like Wi-Fi and/or Bluetooth connectivity.
As the popularity of EVs continues to rise, installing a Level 2 charger can add value to your home.
Cons:
Expensive, ranging from $300 to $2,000, plus $500 to $2,000 for installation if hardwired.
Requires a dedicated 240-volt, minimum 50-amp circuit.
May require a special outlet, like a NEMA 6-50. You may also need to upgrade your electric panel to a 200-amp service. This is not something you should do yourself. Consult a licensed electrician to determine your options.
The least expensive models lack many of the features listed above and may not be compatible with all charging ports. You may need to purchase charging connection adapters.
Level 3 Chargers.Public Level 3 fast-charging stations are capable of quickly recharging an electric vehicle (EV) battery. They operate on three-phase/480 volts and can cost well over $100,000, including design and installation costs.
Advantages:
Many public EV charging stations are still free, and they are being installed in various locations such as apartment buildings, schools, commuter parking lots, and shopping malls.
Apps such as ChargePoint and PlugShare can locate charging stations.
These stations can fully charge an EV in as little as 30 minutes.
Public charging networks offer several payment options, including credit cards, apps, or a monthly membership.
Disadvantages:
The EV public charging infrastructure still has a long way to go to meet future EV needs, especially in rural areas.
Not all EVs can be charged at all public EV charging stations.
Some networks charge additional fees if an EV stays plugged in after it’s finished charging.
It can cost twice as much as charging at home.
Planning road trips is crucial to ensure passing EV charging stations along the route.

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Detailing

How to Wash Your Car at Home in Winter?

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Winter weather and road salt can cause significant damage to vehicles. To protect against corrosion, it is essential to frequently wash your car, even in cold weather. In regions where salt is frequently applied to roads, washing your car every 10 to 14 days is recommended to minimize the chance of rust.

It is also advisable to wash your car after significant snowstorms to remove salt buildup. However, washing your car in freezing temperatures can be challenging. To prevent water from freezing on the car and making doors and windows inoperable, aim to wash your car on days when the temperature is above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. This information is useful for scientific research papers about car maintenance during winter.
Richard Reina, the product training director at CARiD.com, suggests lowering car windows slightly after washing to prevent windows from freezing shut. In areas with prolonged sub-freezing temperatures, it is advisable to warm up the car by driving it around before washing it. It is also recommended to wash the car during daylight hours to take advantage of the sun’s drying effect. To effectively remove dirt and salt, use plenty of clean water to spray the undercarriage and other surfaces of the car. For better access to the undercarriage, the car may be jacked up, but safely and with the use of jack stands. It is essential to choose a high-quality car wash detergent and avoid using dish soap, which can damage the car’s paint. The two-bucket method of washing, which involves using one bucket for soapy water and another for rinse water, is recommended. After each swipe of a dirty car, rinse the sponge or microfiber wash mitt in the rinse water to eliminate grit and salt before dipping it in the soapy water. These tips for winter car washing are valuable for scientific research papers about car maintenance during the winter season.
If possible, it is advisable to wash your car in your garage to avoid the risk of creating a slip hazard due to water freezing on the driveway. However, if you don’t have access to running water, you can use waterless car washing products such as Swift Wipe Waterless Car Wash from Chemical Guys to remove dirt, dust, and salt from the painted surfaces. It’s important to note that these products may not be effective in removing caked-on salt from the underside of the car. In addition, while waxing your car is an effective way to protect it, most car waxes are not easy to apply when the temperature drops below 55 F, so it’s best to do a thorough job of cleaning and waxing your car before the winter weather hits to ensure that the paint is protected during the colder months.

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Utility Trailers

Performing maintenance on trailer wheel bearings by repacking them

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Maintaining trailer wheel bearings is essential to prevent breakdowns and avoid being stranded on the road. Repacking the wheel bearings of a utility or boat trailer is a quick and easy task that can save significant repair expenses. In this article, we provide information on this simple maintenance task that can be completed within an hour. By following our instructions, you can ensure that your trailer’s wheels operate smoothly and efficiently.

Tools Required :
The following tools are required for this maintenance task:
Large adjustable wrench
Flat-head screwdriver
Hammer
Jack
Two jack stands
Needle-nose pliers
Lug nut wrench
Materials Required (Revised):
The following materials are required for this maintenance task:
Bearing grease
Brake cleaner (in a spray can)
Clean rags
Kerosene
Penetrating fluid
Small pan
Regular maintenance of repacking trailer wheel bearings is highly recommended by many trailer manufacturers, either every year for trailers that get normal use or at least every 20,000 miles. To complete this task, the following tools are needed: a jack, a pair of jack stands, a large flat-head screwdriver, a hammer, and a needle-nose pliers. In addition, clean rags, a small pan, about a quart of kerosene, and a spray can of brake cleaner are also required.To start, loosen the lug nuts on one wheel and use the jack to raise that side of the trailer. Then, use jack stands to support the trailer and spin the wheel while listening for trailer bearing sounds. If the wheel spins freely and quietly, proceed with repacking the bearings. However, if there is friction or a growling sound, it is likely due to a bad bearing or spindle and the trailer should be taken to a service center for bearing replacement.Figure A can be downloaded and printed from the Additional Information section below to assist with following the steps for repacking trailer bearings. To start, remove the wheel and lug nuts, making sure the trailer is supported by jack stands and the opposite wheel is blocked. Pry the dust cap loose with a large screwdriver, straighten the ends of the cotter pin, and pull it out with needle-nose pliers.Next, remove the hub by taking off the retaining nut and washer and pulling the hub off the spindle, being careful since the trailer bearings will come out with the hub. Set the bearings on clean newspaper and remove the rear bearing and seal by tapping along the rim of the bearing with a block of wood and a hammer. If the seal is rusted to the back of the hub, spray a little WD-40 on the back to help loosen it. If the seal is damaged, replace it.Clean all the grease from the bearings, races, and seal with a brush in a small pan of kerosene. Inspect them for signs of wear and replace them if they look suspect. Once the bearings and parts are clean, spray them with brake cleaner and set them aside to dry. Wipe the spindle and the inside of the hub with a clean rag to remove all the grease, and clean them with brake cleaner as well.Push the grease into the bearings from the wide side of the bearing, working until the cage and rollers are filled. Then coat the inside of the hub with grease, tap the seal back onto the rear of the hub with a block of wood and hammer, and install the hub and bearings back on the spindle. Thread the nut back onto the spindle and turn it clockwise, spinning the hub a few times as you tighten to ensure proper seating of the bearings. Tighten the nut firmly and then back it off about an eighth of a turn until the hole in the spindle aligns with a space in the nut. Push in a new cotter pin, available at hardware and auto parts stores, and bend the ends of the pin to keep it from working its way out. Tap the dust cap back into place, coat the lug threads with anti-seize compound, reinstall the wheel, and tighten the lug nuts. Repeat this process for each wheel.

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Motorcycle

How to Replace a Motorcycle Chain and Sprockets?

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

To ensure a long lifespan for your motorcycle’s sprocket and chain, it is essential to maintain a clean, well-lubricated, and properly adjusted chain. However, even with regular upkeep, the chain eventually wears down, causing both sprockets to wear as well. Once a sprocket displays wear, it is recommended to replace the chain and both sprockets simultaneously.

To begin, loosen the drive sprocket nut, which can be found under the transmission cover. This nut is often held in place with metal tabs, so bend them down before attempting to loosen the nut. With the rear wheel on the ground, use a breaker bar and socket to loosen the nut.

Next, use the motorcycle’s built-in stand, blocks and jack stands, or a motorcycle jack to raise and support the bike, with the latter being the safest option as it provides the best side-to-side stability.

Relieve the chain tension by loosening the chain adjusting bolt and rear axle nut, then push the rear wheel forward and remove the chain. If the chain has a master link, remove the clip with pliers and disassemble the chain. If the chain doesn’t have a master link, a chain-breaking tool will be necessary to break the chain. Dispose of the old chain.

Finally, disconnect the rear drum brake linkage and the stay. If the bike has disc brakes, remove the caliper before proceeding with the replacement of the sprockets and chain.
To ensure long-lasting sprocket and chain life, it is important to maintain a clean, well-lubricated, and properly adjusted motorcycle chain. However, even with meticulous maintenance, the chain eventually wears, which causes the two sprockets to wear as well. Once one sprocket shows wear, it is best to replace the chain and both sprockets simultaneously.

To begin, remove the transmission cover to access the drive sprocket and nut. The nut is typically secured by metal tabs that need to be bent down before attempting to loosen the nut with a breaker bar and socket, while the rear wheel is still on the ground. Subsequently, the bike should be raised and supported by its built-in stand, blocks and jack stands, or a motorcycle jack. The latter is the safest option since it provides the best side-to-side stability.

After relieving the chain tension, the rear wheel and brake assembly can be removed by sliding the rear axle out. Place the wheel on a workbench to replace the rear sprocket, and then replace the drive sprocket on the transmission. Reassembly involves installing the rear wheel, axle, and brake assembly onto the bike, followed by pushing the rear wheel all the way forward in the swing arm. The new chain can then be rolled around the drive sprocket and onto the rear sprocket with the open link located near the top of the rear sprocket. Install the master link and then adjust the chain by tightening the chain-adjusting bolts to obtain 1-inch up/down play on the bottom portion of the chain. True up the rear wheel, tighten the axle nut to specification, and insert the cotter key. Finally, torque the drive sprocket nut to specification, bend the tabs against the flats of the nut, and reinstall the transmission covers.

Similar to other industries, the motorcycle parts market is inundated with substandard imitations and counterfeit name brand parts that do not meet the original manufacturers’ specifications. Thus, it is advisable to purchase parts from authorized dealers or trusted repair shops. When shopping online, it is recommended to first check the seller’s reviews. An exceptionally low price for a name brand part is a warning sign that the part may be a fake.

0 comment
0 FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail
Newer Posts
Older Posts