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Replace Spark Plug Wires in 5 Easy Steps

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Indeed, spark plug wires can wear out over time. This is because, despite their name, spark plug wires are not actually made of wire, but of delicate carbon fibers.

Over time, these fibers can break down, causing the wires to separate and leading to high electrical resistance. High resistance can degrade the spark, resulting in poor combustion, misfires, reduced fuel efficiency, and eventually, a glowing “Check Engine” light. If left untreated, the wires can begin to leak voltage to nearby engine parts, leading to arcing, serious performance problems, and even ignition component failures.To avoid such problems, it is recommended to replace spark plug wires before they wear out. We recommend doing so when you change the spark plugs, or at intervals specified by your owner’s manual (typically between 100,000 and 160,000 kilometers).In this article, we will outline the materials and tools you will need and provide a step-by-step guide to help you do a quality job of replacing the wires yourself. By doing the job yourself, you can save at least an hour of shop labor charges and avoid costly diagnostic fees associated with worn spark plug wires. The entire process is relatively easy and should take only about an hour.
Before starting the task, use a digital camera to document how the wires are attached to the coil/distributor/coil pack and the path they follow to each plug. Observe how each wire wraps around the others and how they are positioned in the plastic retaining clips. They are arranged in this manner to prevent cross-firing and interference with other engine sensors. So, ensure that you reinstall them in the same way.Unwind the new spark plug wires and sort them by length. When you visit the auto parts store, we suggest that you purchase a premium set of wires. The economy wire set we examined did not match the factory connectors, and the individual wires were either too long or too short for our vehicle. The premium set comes with a lifetime warranty, while the economy set only offers a two-year warranty.Next, invest in a spark plug wire puller tool. This tool makes removal a lot easier and saves you from a lot of scraped knuckles. To use it, just grip the boot with the rounded jaws, rotate left and right, then pull straight out. This is a tool that is worth investing in. Use the wire puller to turn the boot and break the seal from the plug, then remove the old plug. Match the old wire length to the new wire.Some manufacturers pre-coat the insides of the plug and coil/distributor boots with dielectric silicone grease. The grease prevents the boots from sticking to the plug or coil/distributor, as well as providing an additional layer of insulation to prevent voltage from traveling down the inside of the boot. If your set isn’t pre-coated, purchase a small tube of silicone grease and apply a bead around the inside of each boot. Apply dielectric grease to both the plug and the coil/distributor end of each wire. Route the wire and press it onto the plug/coil tower until it clicks.Remove one old wire at a time and match it to a replacement wire of the same length. Route the new wire and push the boot onto the plug or coil/distributor until you feel it click. Repeat this process for each wire.

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Detailing

Methods for Cleaning Your Car Without a Hose

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Need to clean your car but don’t have a hose? Don’t worry, you can learn how to achieve a clean finish with minimal water usage. While having someone else clean your car may seem like a copout and be expensive, observing a professional can help you understand their techniques and the products they use, making the job easier when you do it yourself.

One option for cleaning your car without a hose is to use a modern drive-through car wash. Although these are often less abrasive than a typical home wash, which can damage the paintwork with inappropriate cleaning tools, some automatic car washes may also harm your car’s paint in the same way.
Automatic car washes are water-conserving as they recycle water, but the accumulation of dirt on their brushes over time can be detrimental to a car’s paint. Additionally, the equipment may not be maintained regularly. Therefore, it is recommended to thoroughly inspect automatic car washes before use. For optimal results, use an automatic car wash as a pre-wash and follow up with a hand wash at home using a microfiber washing mitt, car shampoo, microfiber towels, and two wash buckets with Grit Guards to prevent swirl marks and scratches. The latter method involves soaking the mitt in soapy water and wiping the car clean before cleaning it in plain water and drying with microfiber towels. A rinse-less wash is also an alternative, but it is not suitable for heavily soiled cars. It is advised to supervise anyone helping with the cleaning to avoid damaging the car’s paint and to reward them for their assistance.
I like Optimum No Rinse, which is a rinse-less wash product that requires less than a gallon of water and won’t scratch your car’s clear coat. To use, fill a bucket with water and a Grit Guard, add the rinse-less wash product, and clean with a microfiber mitt. Waterless car wash products like Chemical Guys Swift Wipe also make it easy to clean your car without a hose. For a small pump sprayer, use one sprayer with suds and a second with clean water to rinse small sections of the vehicle. The cordless high-pressure washer can also be used to clean cars, as well as floors, fences, swimming pools, water plants, and wash pets. It comes with an extension rod and nozzles for hard-to-reach spots and provides more power than a small pump sprayer, making it easier to move around the car.

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Motorcycle

Upgrade Your Motorcycle Safety Gear

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

If you’re a typical motorcycle rider, you likely anticipate hitting the road at the first sign of spring. As such, you dust off your bike, fill it with fresh gasoline, and start it up. However, it’s essential to take a critical look at your safety equipment as well. The reality is that not only does your gear wear out, but it can also become outdated in terms of safety. Admittedly, new gear can be costly. But if you’re serious about being visible to other drivers and surviving a crash, the added expense is worthwhile.


Helmets have a lifespan of only five years or a single collision. We are not referring to situations where your helmet is dropped. However, if your head was inside the helmet when it made contact with the ground, you should not consider using it again. The energy-absorbing foam materials are not designed to withstand multiple impacts.
Over time, the foam materials deteriorate and begin to lose some of their impact resistance. Additionally, the outer shell begins to deteriorate due to UV exposure. So, check the date on the label, and if it is approaching or exceeding the five-year mark, replace it. Then, gently flex the shell and search for cracks or deep gouges, as well as inspect the foam for cracks or degradation. Also, check the visor for scratches. If you find any signs of damage, replace it with a new helmet.
Over time, the foam materials degrade and lose some of their impact resistance. Additionally, the outer shell begins to deteriorate due to UV exposure. Therefore, check the label’s date and replace your helmet if it’s approaching or exceeding the five-year mark. Then, gently flex the shell and inspect it for cracks or deep gouges, as well as check the foam for cracks or degradation. Also, inspect the visor for scratches. If you notice any signs of damage, replace your helmet with a new one.
If you are in the market for a new helmet, you will find that prices range from less than $100 to $1,500. A budget helmet that meets the Department of Transportation (DOT) safety standards offers basic features for comfort and safety, while a high-end helmet is made from lightweight carbon fiber with advanced impact protection and superior comfort.
Although DOT standards are widely recognized, some experts recommend buying a helmet that meets more rigorous safety standards such as ECE, SNELL or SHARP (refer to “DOT, ECE, SNELL, and SHARP Certifications” on the left). However, a cheap helmet that fits properly provides better protection than a more expensive helmet that doesn’t fit well. Therefore, it is best to buy your helmet locally, where you can get product advice and fitting help from knowledgeable salespeople, rather than buying online or through catalogs.
Apart from choosing a helmet that matches your riding style (e.g. touring, racing, off-road), here are some additional tips from experts:
Full-face helmets with a face shield and fixed chin guard offer the best protection in the event of an accident.
Open-face helmets provide better visibility and ventilation but less impact protection.
Half helmets provide the most ventilation and visibility but provide only minimal protection.
Modular helmets enable you to flip up the chin bar for refueling or eating, but they are not as safe as a full-face helmet.
Novelty helmets that lack DOT certification might allow you to meet state helmet laws, but they provide little protection and are similar to strapping a salad bowl to your head.
Wearing high-visibility clothing can significantly increase your chances of survival on the road, as motorcycles are often overlooked by inattentive drivers.
Translation:
When it comes to helmet selection, there is a wide range of prices, with some helmets costing less than $100 and others costing up to $1,500. A low-cost helmet meets the Department of Transportation (DOT) minimum safety standards and provides some basic comfort features, whereas a high-end helmet is made of carbon fiber and has superior impact protection and comfort.

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Utility Trailers

Improved Upgrades for Utility Trailers

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Most utility trailers are manufactured with sufficient functionality to meet local safety regulations (if any) and your wallet. However, they can be challenging for users as they often lack factory constraints or loading ramps, and factory tail lights typically use incandescent bulbs that need frequent replacement. In an informal survey of approximately 30 trailer owners, trailer light failures were the top frustration, followed by rusted nuts that make changing ball sizes, stuck ball mounts, and difficult-to-tighten trailer loads. Nearly everyone wished for a simpler way to align trailer connectors with hitches, especially in the dark. Therefore, we conducted research and developed five cool new products that are expected to eliminate these troubles.


This paper includes solutions to these problems, as well as a wide range of upgrades that will make your trailer transportation easier and safer. We will also show you safety upgrades that can prevent trailer theft. Most of these multi-purpose trailer accessories can be assembled and installed using socket sets, drills, saws, and screwdrivers. Find the piping and hardware components at home centers or hardware stores, and safety items at any utility trailer parts store or online. Choose the upgrades you like, with costs ranging from a few dollars to several hundred dollars.
Tail lights bounce around, immerse in lakes, and get soaked in road salt. Therefore, it is not surprising that bulb filaments break and sockets corrode, leading to a lot of lighting failures. Sealed LED trailer lights are a brilliant solution.
This submersible LED trailer light with wiring harness and license plate bracket fits existing mounting holes perfectly. Before removing the old light, note the wiring scheme. Then install the new light and make waterproof connections according to our wiring photos.
Wiring the Lights.When installing the new lights, do not use cheap crimp connectors to splice the wires. They will give you a lot of trouble when the crimp connectors start to corrode in a few years. Do the job right the first time – solder all electrical connections and seal each connection with a small diameter heat-shrink tubing. Then seal the wire bundle with a larger diameter shrink tube. Apply liquid electrical tape to the end of the larger tube to complete the waterproof seal. Most automotive parts stores offer heat-shrink tubing kits and liquid electrical tape.
Upgrade 2: Adjustable Ball Mount.If you own multiple trailers with varying tongue heights or ball sizes, you know how difficult it can be to find a replacement for rusty or stuck balls or ball mounts that fits all your trailers. Enter the Rapid Hitch, an aluminum ball mount that can tow up to 10,000 pounds. It is easy to adjust, never rusts, and never gets stuck in the receiver hitch – ever! It’s a bit pricey (around $200), but more durable than your truck or trailer. The hitch comes with three “drop” sizes and several dual-ball combinations. Simply remove your old ball mount and slide this one in place during installation. Purchase the matching lock pin kit to secure your investment. Trust us, someone will want to steal this baby.
Upgrade 3: Trailer Hitch Lights.This is a no-brainer – you never have a flashlight when you need one. If you’ve ever loaded a trailer in the dark or hitched a trailer to your vehicle, you know it’s not fun. These magnetic LED tap lights (Energizer Hard Case Professional 3-LED Area Light; available at opticsplanet.com) are detachable, so they won’t get damaged. Simply mount the backplate in the best position for illumination during loading and hitching, then snap the light onto the backplate. Unlike most tap lights, these babies are weatherproof. But be sure to stow them before takeoff. The magnets may not hold them in place on bumpy roads.
Upgrade 4: Convenient Tie-Down System.No matter what you load onto your trailer, you always seem to be looking for a secure spot to tie down your straps. The E-Track system eliminates this problem. Bolt the tracks onto the trailer floor and then clip in various ratchet straps or rope anchor fittings. We especially like the wood beam socket. Place the socket along the track at any position and insert a board to prevent cargo from shifting. E-Tracks can also be used to mount tie-downs to the side of the trailer, but only if the trailer side is metal reinforced and rock-solid.

Upgrade 5: Quick Coupler.Moving an empty trailer onto a hitch ball is easy. But heavy-duty trailers require you to back the truck up to the trailer. You know how tricky it is to maneuver the unseen hitch into the trailer’s “capture zone.” We found a new type of coupler that features an “auto-catch jaw” and alignment rod to make backing up to the trailer easier. Simply extend the foldable positioning rod and watch them through the rear window. If you’re within the coupler’s 5-inch range, its jaw will automatically “catch” the ball and close the latch mechanism. But be sure to get out and install the lock pin before hitting the road with your trailer.
Upgrade 6: Tricks of the Trade for Plumbers.Have you ever attempted to transport long or fragile items, such as pipes, drywall corner beads, or drip edges? First, you must tie them together. Then, you must secure the bundle to the trailer. Forget it! Instead, build a unit with the same type of drill used by plumbers. Simply slide in the long item, twist on the lid, secure the red flag, and you are ready to go. Construct the entire unit for about $25.
Purchase a 10-foot, 4-inch length of PVC pipe, an end cap, a clean-out adapter, PVC cleaner and adhesive, and four J-shaped hooks. Pour and glue the end cap and clean-out adapter. Utilize wasted space on the side of the trailer to mount the pipe there. Secure the four J-shaped hooks to the side of the trailer and snap the pipe into place. Tie down the drill for added safety.
Upgrade 7: Adding a Winch.Boaters use winches to pull their boats onto a trailer. You can also install one on a utility trailer. It will save your back and eliminate the need for a helper. Simply wrap the strap around the heavy object, then rock it forward along the slope toward the front of the trailer. A 20-foot winch with strap and hook costs about $35 to $40. Bolt it to the trailer A-frame or tongue.
Upgrade 8: Adding a Ramp.Since you can lift it up with wheels, why lift heavy objects? Build this ramp using an aluminum ramp kit (such as Highland No. 0700500; available at summitracing.com) and 2x8s. Simply measure the height of the trailer deck and cut the 2x8s to the recommended length. Install the aluminum top and bottom pieces onto each board. Then space the ramps to fit the equipment you most frequently tow. Install the locking pin, secure the ramp in place, and load.
Upgrade 9: Yard Tool Holder.Gardeners and lawn care professionals always drag rakes, shovels, brooms, and other tools by installing vertical pipes at the front of the trailer. Here’s our version. Cut a 36-inch, 1-1/2-inch length of PVC pipe and glue on end caps. Then drill a hole in each end cap to provide drainage. Connect the pipes using PVC electrical conduit tape and nuts. If you plan to use these pipes in the winter, secure them with metal straps – PVC becomes brittle and will shatter in cold weather. For added safety, attach bungee cords to each tool.

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Truck

Transporting Cargo with Pickup Trucks

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

According to the Foundation for Traffic Safety of the American Automobile Association, poorly secured loads are responsible for over 25,000 crashes and around 90 fatalities annually in the United States.

Additionally, there are non-fatal injuries to drivers and damage to their vehicles. If something falls off your truck and injures someone, you will be held liable. We consulted with experts and loaded our pickup truck with common DIY materials from a local home center to demonstrate proper ways to secure loads. The tie-down methods we present may seem excessive, but securing a load is not just about getting it home safely; it’s about preventing harm to others. These methods can also be used when transporting furniture and household items, which can cause injury if not properly secured. We also present 11 truck bed hacks for creative ideas. Rule number one for securing your load is to purchase heavy-duty 15-foot ratchet straps (a minimum of four) with a load limit of 1,000 pounds and a break strength of 3,000 pounds. While rope and bungee cords may suffice if you drive slowly and avoid bumps or accidents, they are unreliable when you need to swerve or make a sudden stop.
Avoid flimsy straps and invest in heavy-duty ratchet straps (1-1/4 inches or wider). Store the straps in a box in the cab to protect them from moisture and sunlight. When transporting flimsy materials, such as drip edges, flashing, plastic conduit, or siding, wrap both ends with stretch cling film to prevent damage during transportation. For fragile bundles that include lumber, wrap the bundle with the cling film for added support.
When hauling long boards, avoid resting them on a raised gate and use two or more ratchet straps along the bottom of the truck bed. Load the heaviest and longest lumber over the straps and stack shorter lengths on top. Secure the cab end, the middle, and the trailing end with the straps, and anchor the bundle to the truck bed with two additional ratchet straps, crisscrossing them across the load and attaching one end to the cab end anchor rings and the other end to the farthest bundle strap.
For hauling sheet goods with the tailgate down, use two ratchet straps across the truck bed and at least two 12-ft. 2x4s to help support the overhang and protect the sheet goods from any water, rocks, or debris on the truck bed. Use cardboard corners to protect the edges of the sheet goods, then tighten the bottom straps to secure the bundle. Finally, run two straps from the truck bed anchor rings around the back edge of the sheets and down to the bumper.
When transporting bulky loads, use a cargo net to secure the materials. Purchase a cargo net at a home center or online and snap the retainer clips into the anchor points on the bed. For light 8- to 10-ft. loads, the tailgate can be up but still needs to be secured. Use ratchet straps on the bundle in two places and secure each end to the anchor rings on the bed.
Required tools for this project include ratchet straps, a cargo net, and leather gloves.

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Motorcycle

How to Select the Best Motorcycle Oil for Your Bike?

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Not sure about the frequency of motorcycle oil changes? Discover the answer to that question and more, including the importance of using the right oil. Replacing your motorcycle’s engine oil at regular intervals is one of the most critical maintenance procedures you can perform. In fact, it’s even more consequential than changing your car’s oil.

Motorcycle oil serves several functions, including lubricating moving parts, protecting the engine from moisture and contaminants, and cooling the engine and transmission. Unlike cars, most motorcycles use oil for engine and transmission cooling instead of automatic transmission fluid.

Unfortunately, oil eventually breaks down and accumulates contaminants and moisture, which can lead to engine and transmission damage, impaired performance, and reduced fuel economy. That’s why it’s essential to maintain the integrity of your motorcycle oil by changing it regularly and using the right type of oil.

There are three main types of motorcycle oil: mineral, synthetic, and semi-synthetic. Mineral oil is the cheapest and made from refined crude oil, but it breaks down more quickly and requires more frequent replacement than synthetic oils, which are more expensive but offer greater engine protection. Semi-synthetic oils are a hybrid of mineral and synthetic oils and offer an excellent compromise between longevity and affordability.
Choosing the correct oil for your motorcycle is critical due to its multi-functional nature. The manufacturer-recommended type, which is found in the user manual, should include the following information: whether synthetic or mineral oil is required, the viscosity grade or “weight” (most commonly 10W-40), the American Petroleum Institute (API) classification (a two-letter code ranging from SA to SN indicating oil lubrication and additive properties), and the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) classification (a two-letter code indicating the friction modifier’s characteristics that can impact clutch performance). For most motorcycles with a manual transmission with a wet clutch, a JASCO rating of MA is recommended, while motorcycles with automatic transmissions should use oil with a JASCO rating of MB. Always consult the user manual for the manufacturer’s recommended oil and oil change intervals.

How Frequently Should Motorcycle Oil be Changed?

The type of oil used, the number of miles driven, and the frequency of use determine how often motorcycle oil should be changed. The user manual provides the recommended service intervals, but the following general guidelines apply: Mineral oil should be replaced every 2,000 to 3,000 miles, or at least once a year; synthetic oil should be replaced every 7,000 to 10,000 miles, or at least once a year; semi-synthetic oil should be replaced every 5,000 to 6,000 miles, or at least once a year. If you don’t ride your motorcycle frequently, or if you take short trips under 30 minutes, you may need to replace your oil at more regular intervals since an engine requires regular driving to burn off any moisture that has accumulated in the oil. This excess moisture can lead to accelerated oil degradation and engine corrosion. If you can’t ride your motorcycle for 30 minutes every one to two weeks, as is typical during winter, it is recommended to replace your oil every four months.

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Parts

Electric Vehicle Maintenance: What Sets It Apart?

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Electric vehicles require less maintenance than their gas-powered counterparts. However, like all four-wheeled vehicles, routine maintenance is still necessary. While maintenance on electric vehicles (EVs) is less complicated and costly than on vehicles with internal combustion engines (ICE), EVs are not maintenance-free. Many EV maintenance tasks are comparable to traditional vehicles, but there are some specific services unique to EVs that need to be considered. Also, it is important to stay up to date on electric vehicle FAQs that cover charger types and costs associated with owning an electric vehicle.


The maintenance and service differences between EV and ICE motors are significant. While an EV’s main electric motor does not require maintenance, ICE-powered vehicles have a substantial number of mechanical parts that wear out or require regular servicing. To avoid motor overheating and to prolong battery life, it is important to avoid constantly charging an EV battery to 100 percent capacity and letting it drop to zero charge.
ICE components that require frequent maintenance, repair or replacement include:
Motor oil and filter
Engine tune-ups (spark plugs, air and fuel filters, PCV valve)
Engine ignition parts and components (spark plug wires, ignition coils)
Drive and timing belts
Clogged fuel injectors
Fuel pump
Gaskets, O-rings, and seals that can leak
Throttle body issues
Battery Maintenance
Technically, EV batteries do not require maintenance or service. However, due to their size and high voltage, EV batteries and other critical electrical components need to be kept cool. While some EVs cool these systems with air, many use the manufacturer’s proprietary battery coolant to prevent overheating and to warm it up on colder days.
When it comes to EV battery maintenance, it is critical to leave all service, including adding coolant, to the experts. Only a trained, certified technician wearing the proper protective equipment (PPE) should work on high-voltage EV batteries and electrical systems. US federal regulations mandate electric car batteries be covered for at least eight years, and servicing the battery yourself will void the warranty. To maintain good charging habits, keep the battery between 20 and 80 percent charged. It is also essential to inspect the battery coolant pump(s) for leaks and check the battery coolant hoses and fittings for corrosion and leaks.
Traditional car batteries usually last four to six years. To prolong their life, check the battery fluid monthly, clean the battery, battery terminals, and cables annually, and ensure the battery is held firmly in place.
The maintenance of brakes is important for both electric vehicles (EVs) and internal combustion engine (ICE)-powered vehicles. It is recommended to check the brakes every time the tires are rotated and change the brake fluid every 24 months or 24,000 miles for both types of vehicles.
EVs feature regenerative braking systems that use the electric motor’s resistance to slow down the vehicle. Due to this, the brake pads and rotors in EVs do not get as hot as those in ICE-powered vehicles. Careful inspection of brake pads, rotors, and hardware for wear, tear, and rust is necessary, especially if the brakes are noisy or squeaky.
Regular tire maintenance is essential for both ICE-powered and electric vehicles, not only for driving safety but also to increase tire life and improve fuel economy. Even slight vibrations can shorten tire and battery life, which is why tires should be balanced every time they are rotated.
EV tires require more attention than ICE-powered vehicle tires for three reasons. First, EVs are heavier than gas-powered vehicles, which causes tires to wear out quicker. Second, EVs have electric motors that deliver instant torque to the wheels and tires, causing them to wear out faster. Third, according to a recent study by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), tighter control of tire-pressure loss can lead to marked improvement in EV efficiency.
Many routine maintenance items for both EVs and ICE-powered vehicles can be easily done by the owner. For EVs with a gearbox or transmission, consult the owner’s manual to determine the recommended service interval. Inspection of all fluids, battery, cabin, electrical, steering, suspension, and chassis systems for excess wear or damage, as well as checking all hoses, fittings, and fluid pumps for leaks should be done every 7,500 miles or once a year for EVs and ICE-powered vehicles.
For ICE-powered vehicles, monthly checks of motor oil, battery fluid, belts, and hoses are necessary, and motor oil and filter should be changed every six months or every 5,000 to 7,500 miles. The fuel filter, air filter, cabin air filter, and PCV valve should be replaced every 12,000 to 15,000 miles, or sooner if driving in dusty, dirty conditions.
For both EVs and ICE-powered vehicles, regular checks of windshield wiper solvent, brake fluid, and lights are necessary. The vehicle’s exterior should be inspected and washed with clean water monthly, and tires should be rotated and matched for balance every 5,000 to 7,500 miles. Wiper blades should be replaced every six months, and the cabin air filter should be replaced every 24 months or sooner if driving in dusty, dirty conditions. Finally, all door hinges, latches, and anchors should be lubed with a few drops of motor oil or white lithium grease annually.

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Detailing

Spring Cleaning Guide for Your Car

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Although it is important to keep a vehicle clean throughout the winter, spring provides an opportunity to restore its shine. This guide outlines the key aspects of spring cleaning a car to keep it in top condition.

When washing a car, it is best to use a high-quality liquid car wash instead of dish soap, as well as a car wash mitt or sponge to avoid swirl marks and fading clearcoat. While light-colored cars can be washed with soft-bristled brushes, it is important to use a microfiber cloth to dry the car to avoid water spots. Finally, vehicle interiors can contain a variety of materials, including plastic, fabric, and leather, so it is recommended to use all-purpose cleaning products and a leather conditioner on leather seats and parts.
To protect vehicles from salt and deicer damage, it is important to wash them thoroughly. A full-service car wash with an undercarriage wash is the fastest and most efficient way to remove deposits and prevent rust. DIY detailers can also use a 50/50 water and vinegar mix to remove salt and grime buildups. Before washing the car, rinse it with water to remove contaminants such as dirt and salt, and use a different sponge or mitt for the wheels and tires. To avoid dirtying the interior, start by cleaning the exterior first.
Dry the car with a microfiber cloth after washing to prevent water spots and a dull paint finish.
Apply carnauba wax to the clearcoat to protect and shine the car’s surface. Use a different cloth for the wheels.
Remove everything from the interior, wipe down the dashboard and door panels with an all-purpose cleaner and microfiber cloth, then vacuum and brush to remove dirt from the interior.
Condition the leather with a leather conditioner.
Use a glass cleaner formulated for vehicles to clean the interior windows with a microfiber cloth.
Check and replace the oil, wiper blades, cabin filter, and rotate the tires as needed.
Translation:To maintain a car’s appearance and performance during spring cleaning, it is recommended to use a microfiber cloth to dry the vehicle after washing to avoid water spots and a dull paint finish. Apply carnauba wax to the clearcoat to protect and add shine to the car’s surface. Use a different cloth for the wheels. After removing everything from the car’s interior, wipe the dashboard and door panels with an all-purpose cleaner and microfiber cloth before vacuuming and brushing to remove dirt. Use a leather conditioner to clean the leather seats, steering wheel, and shifter boot. To clean the interior windows, use a microfiber cloth and a glass cleaner specifically formulated for vehicles to avoid streaks or affecting window tints. Additionally, check and replace the oil, wiper blades, cabin filter, and rotate the tires as needed.

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Utility Trailers

Selection of a Trailer Brake Controller

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

Understanding the options available for trailer brake controllers, how brake controllers work, and how to determine which brake controller is best suited to your needs are important considerations when installing a trailer brake controller. Even if the vehicle you purchased comes with a factory-installed towing package, you now know that a brake controller unit is still required to operate the brakes on the trailer. How do you determine the best installation?

What is a trailer brake controller? When a driver applies the brakes in the towing vehicle, the trailer brake controller supplies power to the trailer’s braking system. The advent of anti-lock brake systems (ABS) permanently altered the nature of these devices. Once integrated with the hydraulic lines of the tow vehicle’s braking system, brake controllers in the ABS era can now electronically link to that braking system.Do I even need a trailer brake controller? Light-duty trailers typically do not require an independent braking system. However, availability is increasing due to improved safety standards and awareness. Boat trailers, for example, commonly use surge brakes that do not require a controller. Furthermore, the big three automobile manufacturers now include controllers in some of their factory-installed towing packages, so be aware of how your vehicle is equipped. If you do not need one, save the expense.The following is information that you should know about choosing a trailer hitch.Types of trailer brake controllers There are up to four types of control modules depending on how you classify them. The price of trailer brake controllers ranges from $45 to several hundred dollars. If you frequently tow or tow long distances, then an investment in a controller becomes worthwhile.
The time-delayed brake controller is the least expensive and operates by activating the trailer brakes with a prescribed amount of power in discrete time intervals. The operator sets the start delay, power level, and duration of brake application to match the load requirements, how often the vehicle is used for towing, and the operator’s driving style. The controller can be mounted at any angle (you will understand why later). For those who occasionally tow, tow short distances and/or tow medium to light loads, this controller works well.Its primary drawback relates to a lack of variable braking power. In light braking situations, the trailer brakes may become too strong compared to the towing vehicle, causing the trailer brakes to bear the weight of slowing down both the vehicle and the trailer, prematurely wearing out the trailer brakes. Conversely, more forceful braking situations force the towing vehicle to compensate for the limited power provided to the trailer brakes. This condition causes excessive wear (and heating) to the trailer brakes and can result in heavy trailers breaking apart in extreme cases.

Inertia-based brake controller.Classified as a subset of inertia-based controllers, they adjust the trailer’s braking power when changes in the pendulum position are sensed. The harder the vehicle decelerates, the greater the swing it causes, and the more power the trailer brake will provide. The downside of this type of controller is its need for horizontal installation and its potential to be confused by steep inclines.

Proportional controller.Proportional controllers use accelerometers to sense brake intensity and provide proportionally leveled power to the trailer brake. This response allows the towing vehicle and trailer to work together in light, heavy, or sudden braking situations, evenly distributing the brake power needed. The proportional controller’s downside is its cost, which is higher than the other controllers.

Liquid and Electronic Control Systems.Recent innovations have produced hydraulic electronic controllers, which use microcomputers to convert hydraulic pressure into electrical current. As the next generation, they are now the most commonly used controllers in the market, but they are often associated with higher costs—at least until they become more widespread.

Most home mechanics can easily install trailer brake controllers. Newer vehicles typically come with a seven-point wiring harness for installing the controller, but other styles exist as well. If you need to purchase the controller end of the wiring harness, it can be easily found at auto parts stores and online. There may be a factory pre-wire plug hidden below the dashboard. When seated in the driver’s seat, look for it in the location above your right knee. Sometimes, you’ll find it on the left side. If the manufacturer did not pre-wire back to the trailer brake wiring harness, you will need to install it in an unbroken wire. Remember that inertia activation and some proportional controllers must be mounted level to function properly. You should also check the clearance above your knee to prevent the equipment from being crushed while driving.If you are towing under high-demand conditions due to grades, distance, or frequency, you may also consider upgrading the rotors to slotted and cross-drilled types, and the brake pads and brake fluid to high-temperature resistant products.

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Truck

10 Timeless Vintage Trucks that Remain Popular

by Jaquan Green
written by Jaquan Green

These vintage trucks are still commonly observed on roads today, and their advanced age and remarkable histories render them even more appealing to drive.


1928 Fageol truck
Originally utilized as a freight hauler between Sacramento and Richmond, California, this truck was later acquired by a farmer who used it for delivering hay to the animals on the farm.

1929 Ford AA truck
This old 1929 truck features an express bed, no turn signals, and has a maximum speed of only 30 mph, but driving it would certainly make you look cool.

1934 Dodge Pickup truck
It required 82 years for this vintage truck to acquire its rusty appearance. During its earlier years, it worked on a farm before being put in storage and subsequently sitting in a junkyard. The vehicle’s interior has been renovated, while the rustic charm of the exterior has been preserved by its owners.

1941 Ford truck
This Ford truck, which weighs one and a half tons, was utilized as a logging truck by its first owners. It was subsequently employed to transport hay, oats, and crops.

1948 Rail-Back Chevy truck
This Chevy truck’s bright red exterior gives it that classic appearance.

1955 Dodge C truck
This vintage truck was designed to appear on a Christmas card. The second owner purchased the car in 2010 and attempted to restore it to its original condition.

1959 Chevrolet Apache truck
This green Chevy truck was purchased from Sheridan Chevrolet in Sutton, Nebraska. Originally employed to transport grain, it has since been handed down through the family and continues to be driven today.

1960 Ford F150 truck
This vintage truck is equipped with chrome American Racing wheels, a replacement steering wheel of larger diameter, and oversized side-view mirrors.

1968 F-series Ford truck
This all-metal exterior truck was equipped with a fifth-wheel plate used for hauling trailers. If you wish to drive this truck today, you must learn to utilize the hand choke on the dashboard to start it, operate a manual transmission with a stiff clutch, navigate turns without power steering, and operate without power brakes. Furthermore, you may only listen to the single radio station available.

1976 Ranger F-150 truck
This durable truck remains proudly parked in the driveway of the original owner’s daughter, demonstrating that proper maintenance can result in extended longevity.

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