Motorcycle

Consider replacing your motorcycle’s handlebars for a modern look. This simple upgrade can save you hundreds of dollars if you do it yourself.
If you’re still using outdated “ape hanger” handlebars from the 1970s, it’s time to update. I’ll guide you on how to replace your handlebars and save about $200.

Start the project by measuring your current handlebar diameter. Choose your preferred handlebar style, but verify with the manufacturer or your dealer that it provides enough turning clearance to avoid hitting the gas tank.
You will also need shorter brake, clutch, and throttle cables, as well as a shorter brake line. Your local dealer can send your old cables for professional modification, or you can buy new cables (at approximately twice the price).
To begin, remove the headlight to access the harness splice area. Then, disconnect the wires from the handlebar harness. Next, drain the brake fluid reservoir and disconnect and remove the brake line, switches, levers, and throttle. Finally, remove the left hand grip, unbolt the handlebar, and move it to the workbench.
To update the appearance of your motorcycle, replacing the handlebars with a newer style can be a simple and cost-effective upgrade if you do it yourself. If you are still using outdated “ape hanger” handlebars from the 1970s, it may be time for a change. This project begins with measuring the diameter of your current handlebars and selecting a new style that offers enough clearance to avoid the gas tank. Shorter cables and brake lines are also necessary. You can either purchase new ones or have your old ones professionally modified at your local dealer. You will need to disconnect the wires from the handlebar harness, drain the brake fluid reservoir, and remove the switches, levers, and throttle before removing the old handlebars. After modifying the control brackets, reconnect the wiring harness and install the shorter cables and brake hose. Secure the wiring harness with zip ties and top off the brake fluid reservoir. Before you take the motorcycle for a spin, test all electrical connections and the brakes. To avoid wasting time and becoming frustrated, gather the necessary tools and materials beforehand, including a micrometer, compressed air gun, and rotary tool.
To give your motorcycle a more modern appearance, upgrading the handlebars with a new design is an easy and cost-effective DIY project. If you’re still using old-fashioned “ape hanger” handlebars from the 1970s, it might be time to switch to a newer style. This project starts with measuring the diameter of the current handlebars and selecting a new style that provides sufficient clearance to avoid the gas tank. Additionally, you’ll need to obtain shorter cables and brake lines, which you can either purchase or have modified professionally by your local dealer. To replace the old handlebars, you must first disconnect the wires from the handlebar harness, drain the brake fluid reservoir, and remove the switches, levers, and throttle. Then, after modifying the control brackets, reconnect the wiring harness and install the shorter cables and brake hose. Secure the wiring harness using zip ties, and top off the brake fluid reservoir. Before taking the motorcycle for a ride, ensure that all electrical connections and the brakes are tested. To save time and avoid frustration, make sure to gather all the necessary tools and materials beforehand, including a micrometer, compressed air gun, and rotary tool.

To ensure a long lifespan for your motorcycle’s sprocket and chain, it is essential to maintain a clean, well-lubricated, and properly adjusted chain. However, even with regular upkeep, the chain eventually wears down, causing both sprockets to wear as well. Once a sprocket displays wear, it is recommended to replace the chain and both sprockets simultaneously.

To begin, loosen the drive sprocket nut, which can be found under the transmission cover. This nut is often held in place with metal tabs, so bend them down before attempting to loosen the nut. With the rear wheel on the ground, use a breaker bar and socket to loosen the nut.

Next, use the motorcycle’s built-in stand, blocks and jack stands, or a motorcycle jack to raise and support the bike, with the latter being the safest option as it provides the best side-to-side stability.

Relieve the chain tension by loosening the chain adjusting bolt and rear axle nut, then push the rear wheel forward and remove the chain. If the chain has a master link, remove the clip with pliers and disassemble the chain. If the chain doesn’t have a master link, a chain-breaking tool will be necessary to break the chain. Dispose of the old chain.

Finally, disconnect the rear drum brake linkage and the stay. If the bike has disc brakes, remove the caliper before proceeding with the replacement of the sprockets and chain.
To ensure long-lasting sprocket and chain life, it is important to maintain a clean, well-lubricated, and properly adjusted motorcycle chain. However, even with meticulous maintenance, the chain eventually wears, which causes the two sprockets to wear as well. Once one sprocket shows wear, it is best to replace the chain and both sprockets simultaneously.

To begin, remove the transmission cover to access the drive sprocket and nut. The nut is typically secured by metal tabs that need to be bent down before attempting to loosen the nut with a breaker bar and socket, while the rear wheel is still on the ground. Subsequently, the bike should be raised and supported by its built-in stand, blocks and jack stands, or a motorcycle jack. The latter is the safest option since it provides the best side-to-side stability.

After relieving the chain tension, the rear wheel and brake assembly can be removed by sliding the rear axle out. Place the wheel on a workbench to replace the rear sprocket, and then replace the drive sprocket on the transmission. Reassembly involves installing the rear wheel, axle, and brake assembly onto the bike, followed by pushing the rear wheel all the way forward in the swing arm. The new chain can then be rolled around the drive sprocket and onto the rear sprocket with the open link located near the top of the rear sprocket. Install the master link and then adjust the chain by tightening the chain-adjusting bolts to obtain 1-inch up/down play on the bottom portion of the chain. True up the rear wheel, tighten the axle nut to specification, and insert the cotter key. Finally, torque the drive sprocket nut to specification, bend the tabs against the flats of the nut, and reinstall the transmission covers.

Similar to other industries, the motorcycle parts market is inundated with substandard imitations and counterfeit name brand parts that do not meet the original manufacturers’ specifications. Thus, it is advisable to purchase parts from authorized dealers or trusted repair shops. When shopping online, it is recommended to first check the seller’s reviews. An exceptionally low price for a name brand part is a warning sign that the part may be a fake.

Motorcycle detailing can be expensive, ranging from $200 to $600 for a complete job with an optional protectant package. Therefore, it is reasonable to want to clean your bike yourself to save money. To begin, work in a shaded area and wait for the engine to cool down before cleaning. Remove the leather, including the seat and saddlebags, and cover the battery with plastic sheeting. Seal off the exhaust pipe(s) with plastic wrap and a rubber band.

Start by doing a prerinse with plain water to remove surface dust and grit. A fireman’s-style garden hose nozzle is ideal because you can adjust the spray pattern for each area of the bike. A pressure washer can also be used, but make sure to turn down the pressure to its lowest setting and maintain a safe distance to avoid harming the softer metal and plastic parts. Use a gentle stream around wheel hubs to prevent water from entering the bearings.

Use a gentle car wash soap, a microfiber wash mitt, and separate soap and rinse buckets. The prewash is only intended to remove light road dirt and mud, so don’t scrub the really dirty and greasy areas with your mitt. Save those areas for the special cleaners that will be used later. Rinse off the suds and dry the bike immediately to avoid water spots. Rather than wiping the bike by hand, use a power blower, such as the Metro SK-1 Motorcycle Dryer, or compressed air, keeping the pressure below 70 psi. Remove any remaining water with a waffle-weave microfiber towel.

Clean the dash with a gentle cleaner, such as Leather Therapy Wash or Meguiars D180 Leather Cleaner & Conditioner. Then clean the engine, transmission, chain, or driveshaft housing with a spray cleaner. If the S100 product is insufficient to remove caked-on grease, dilute a heavy-duty degreaser 4 to 1 with water or use a mild degreaser like Simple Green at a 50/50 ratio with water. Apply the diluted degreaser and use some elbow grease for the job. Do not use full-strength degreaser on your bike.

Before polishing the chrome, switch to a smooth 100% cotton rag instead of a microfiber towel. You can use an old T-shirt or dish towel as long as you remove the seams first. Seams stitched with synthetic thread can scratch the chrome, and the seams can retain grit. Finally, use the Meguiars M205 polish that was used on the dash.
To clean and maintain the leather seat and saddlebags, use Leather Therapy Wash and Leather Therapy Restorer and Conditioner or Meguiar’s D180. These products rejuvenate and condition the leather without leaving slick additives that could cause slippage. Remove any remaining traces of the cleaners with a new batch of soapy water, rinse, and dry the bike completely. Use 303 Aerospace Protectant to clean and treat rubber foot pegs/rests and pedals, which contains UV inhibitors to prevent rubber degradation and dries to a nonslip matte finish. Seal painted areas with Sonax Polymer Net Shield. To remove old dried-on wax, apply new wax to soften the old wax and wipe it off with a rag. For removing melted rubber from exhaust pipes, use household oven cleaner after testing it first on an inconspicuous spot on the chrome. Spray the oven cleaner onto the melted rubber, let it soak in for a few minutes, and then wipe it off with a cotton towel.

If you’re a typical motorcycle rider, you likely anticipate hitting the road at the first sign of spring. As such, you dust off your bike, fill it with fresh gasoline, and start it up. However, it’s essential to take a critical look at your safety equipment as well. The reality is that not only does your gear wear out, but it can also become outdated in terms of safety. Admittedly, new gear can be costly. But if you’re serious about being visible to other drivers and surviving a crash, the added expense is worthwhile.

Helmets have a lifespan of only five years or a single collision. We are not referring to situations where your helmet is dropped. However, if your head was inside the helmet when it made contact with the ground, you should not consider using it again. The energy-absorbing foam materials are not designed to withstand multiple impacts.
Over time, the foam materials deteriorate and begin to lose some of their impact resistance. Additionally, the outer shell begins to deteriorate due to UV exposure. So, check the date on the label, and if it is approaching or exceeding the five-year mark, replace it. Then, gently flex the shell and search for cracks or deep gouges, as well as inspect the foam for cracks or degradation. Also, check the visor for scratches. If you find any signs of damage, replace it with a new helmet.
Over time, the foam materials degrade and lose some of their impact resistance. Additionally, the outer shell begins to deteriorate due to UV exposure. Therefore, check the label’s date and replace your helmet if it’s approaching or exceeding the five-year mark. Then, gently flex the shell and inspect it for cracks or deep gouges, as well as check the foam for cracks or degradation. Also, inspect the visor for scratches. If you notice any signs of damage, replace your helmet with a new one.
If you are in the market for a new helmet, you will find that prices range from less than $100 to $1,500. A budget helmet that meets the Department of Transportation (DOT) safety standards offers basic features for comfort and safety, while a high-end helmet is made from lightweight carbon fiber with advanced impact protection and superior comfort.
Although DOT standards are widely recognized, some experts recommend buying a helmet that meets more rigorous safety standards such as ECE, SNELL or SHARP (refer to “DOT, ECE, SNELL, and SHARP Certifications” on the left). However, a cheap helmet that fits properly provides better protection than a more expensive helmet that doesn’t fit well. Therefore, it is best to buy your helmet locally, where you can get product advice and fitting help from knowledgeable salespeople, rather than buying online or through catalogs.
Apart from choosing a helmet that matches your riding style (e.g. touring, racing, off-road), here are some additional tips from experts:
Full-face helmets with a face shield and fixed chin guard offer the best protection in the event of an accident.
Open-face helmets provide better visibility and ventilation but less impact protection.
Half helmets provide the most ventilation and visibility but provide only minimal protection.
Modular helmets enable you to flip up the chin bar for refueling or eating, but they are not as safe as a full-face helmet.
Novelty helmets that lack DOT certification might allow you to meet state helmet laws, but they provide little protection and are similar to strapping a salad bowl to your head.
Wearing high-visibility clothing can significantly increase your chances of survival on the road, as motorcycles are often overlooked by inattentive drivers.
Translation:
When it comes to helmet selection, there is a wide range of prices, with some helmets costing less than $100 and others costing up to $1,500. A low-cost helmet meets the Department of Transportation (DOT) minimum safety standards and provides some basic comfort features, whereas a high-end helmet is made of carbon fiber and has superior impact protection and comfort.

Not sure about the frequency of motorcycle oil changes? Discover the answer to that question and more, including the importance of using the right oil. Replacing your motorcycle’s engine oil at regular intervals is one of the most critical maintenance procedures you can perform. In fact, it’s even more consequential than changing your car’s oil.

Motorcycle oil serves several functions, including lubricating moving parts, protecting the engine from moisture and contaminants, and cooling the engine and transmission. Unlike cars, most motorcycles use oil for engine and transmission cooling instead of automatic transmission fluid.

Unfortunately, oil eventually breaks down and accumulates contaminants and moisture, which can lead to engine and transmission damage, impaired performance, and reduced fuel economy. That’s why it’s essential to maintain the integrity of your motorcycle oil by changing it regularly and using the right type of oil.

There are three main types of motorcycle oil: mineral, synthetic, and semi-synthetic. Mineral oil is the cheapest and made from refined crude oil, but it breaks down more quickly and requires more frequent replacement than synthetic oils, which are more expensive but offer greater engine protection. Semi-synthetic oils are a hybrid of mineral and synthetic oils and offer an excellent compromise between longevity and affordability.
Choosing the correct oil for your motorcycle is critical due to its multi-functional nature. The manufacturer-recommended type, which is found in the user manual, should include the following information: whether synthetic or mineral oil is required, the viscosity grade or “weight” (most commonly 10W-40), the American Petroleum Institute (API) classification (a two-letter code ranging from SA to SN indicating oil lubrication and additive properties), and the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) classification (a two-letter code indicating the friction modifier’s characteristics that can impact clutch performance). For most motorcycles with a manual transmission with a wet clutch, a JASCO rating of MA is recommended, while motorcycles with automatic transmissions should use oil with a JASCO rating of MB. Always consult the user manual for the manufacturer’s recommended oil and oil change intervals.

How Frequently Should Motorcycle Oil be Changed?

The type of oil used, the number of miles driven, and the frequency of use determine how often motorcycle oil should be changed. The user manual provides the recommended service intervals, but the following general guidelines apply: Mineral oil should be replaced every 2,000 to 3,000 miles, or at least once a year; synthetic oil should be replaced every 7,000 to 10,000 miles, or at least once a year; semi-synthetic oil should be replaced every 5,000 to 6,000 miles, or at least once a year. If you don’t ride your motorcycle frequently, or if you take short trips under 30 minutes, you may need to replace your oil at more regular intervals since an engine requires regular driving to burn off any moisture that has accumulated in the oil. This excess moisture can lead to accelerated oil degradation and engine corrosion. If you can’t ride your motorcycle for 30 minutes every one to two weeks, as is typical during winter, it is recommended to replace your oil every four months.

Maintaining proper tire pressure is critical for safe ATV operation. Always fill your tires to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure, which can be found on a label attached to the vehicle and in the owner’s manual. Do not inflate the tires to the maximum pressure shown on the tire sidewall.

Using an automotive tire gauge instead of a low-pressure tire gauge can result in inaccurate readings, and many ATV owners overfill their tires, which can decrease traction and increase the risk of accidents. In 2006, ATV accidents in the US resulted in an estimated 882 deaths and 146,600 emergency room visits. To avoid becoming a statistic, inflate your tires to the recommended pressure.

CV boots are an essential part of an ATV’s lubrication system. They protect the joint from dirt and debris, preventing damage to the metal parts. Check the condition of the boots regularly by looking for signs of fresh grease around the pleats. If the boots are damaged, they must be replaced promptly to prevent costly joint failure.

Replacing a CV boot is a straightforward procedure, but it requires removing the axle shaft from the ATV. To do this, you must jack up the vehicle and support it with jack stands, remove the wheel, and the axle nut. Depending on the ATV’s axle style, removing the axle from the differential may require a crowbar or a special procedure. A service manual is a valuable investment for ATV owners who plan to perform their maintenance.
Tire pressure is critical to safe ATV operation. Always inflate your tires to the recommended pressure specified by the ATV manufacturer, which can be found on the machine’s label or in the owner’s manual, rather than using the maximum pressure indicated on the tire sidewall. Using an auto tire gauge instead of a low-pressure tire gauge can lead to inaccurate readings, and overinflating your tires can decrease traction and increase the risk of accidents. In 2006, ATV accidents in the United States led to an estimated 882 fatalities and 146,600 emergency room visits. Regularly checking the condition of your constant velocity (CV) boots, which keep dirt out of the joint and lubricating grease inside, can prevent costly joint replacement. A quick inspection for fresh grease around the pleats is an easy way to detect worn-out CV boots. While replacing a CV boot is a simple task, it requires removing the axle shaft from the ATV, which in turn necessitates jacking up the machine and removing the wheel and axle nut. It is recommended to replace both CV boots while the axle shaft is out of the machine, and a band installation tool is needed for proper installation. In dirty operating conditions, cleaning the air filter is critical to maintaining the ATV’s performance. An air filter cleaning kit, a plastic cleaning tub, rags, a bucket of soapy water, and chemical-resistant gloves can all be used to clean the air filter. Proper lubrication of the motorcycle chain can also greatly increase its longevity. It is essential to apply lubrication to the section of the chain that meshes with the cogs instead of the chain’s exterior, which is often done incorrectly. By lubricating cables twice a season, it is possible to extend their useful life and avoid expensive replacements. A specialized lubrication tool and spray cable lube can be purchased from a dealer or online. Finally, regularly changing the differential oil in your ATV is an easy drain-and-refill procedure that can prevent significant repair expenses. Always refer to the owner’s manual for recommended change intervals and the proper type of lube oil.

In areas where motorcycle use is limited during winter, proper storage is necessary to avoid damage to the bike. Cold starts and exposure to salted roads can cause corrosion, while motorcycle tires offer poor traction on wet and snowy roads.

To avoid these risks, many people choose to store their motorcycles during the winter months. However, inadequate winter storage preparation can also damage the bike. To ensure safe storage until warmer weather returns, it is important to follow these steps:Winter Motorcycle Storage Checklist
Perform these tasks before storing your motorcycle.
To ensure the longevity of your motorcycle during storage, several steps should be taken. Firstly, a motorcycle battery that remains inactive for extended periods will lose its charge, leading to permanent damage. Therefore, connecting a battery tender to your motorcycle’s battery is necessary to maintain its charge while in storage. Additionally, tires that remain in the same position can develop bald spots from the bike’s weight continually pressing down on one spot. To prevent balding tires, it is recommended to remove all the weight from the tires, with the center stand (if equipped) or motorcycle stands. Finally, investing in a good motorcycle cover is necessary to protect your motorcycle from dust and moisture abrasion. If you are searching for a place to store your motorcycle, storing it in your garage is one of the safest and most convenient options. However, the only disadvantage is that it can take up a lot of space you may not be willing to sacrifice.
Storing a motorcycle on a driveway provides easy access for maintenance and inspection, but exposes it to possible weather damage and theft. Portable motorcycle shelters offer an affordable solution, protecting the motorcycle partially from the elements and ensuring security in the backyard. However, outdoor storage provides less weather protection compared to indoor storage and portable shelters come with additional expenses. If you choose not to store the motorcycle at home, a storage unit can keep it safe from inclement weather and theft. Yet, storing your motorcycle in a storage unit incurs additional cost and may not provide convenient inspection or maintenance opportunities. Properly preparing a motorcycle for storage can be time-consuming, but it is necessary to avoid damaging the motorcycle and incurring costly repairs when the riding season returns.

SCI-style translation:
Storing a motorcycle on a driveway is a convenient method for maintenance and inspection but leaves it vulnerable to weather damage and theft. Portable motorcycle shelters are an affordable option to store motorcycles at home, protecting them from the elements and theft when stored in a backyard. Nevertheless, outdoor storage provides less weather protection compared to indoor storage, and portable shelters are an additional expense. Alternatively, storing a motorcycle in a storage unit can prevent damage from inclement weather and theft. However, this method incurs additional costs and may not provide convenient inspection or maintenance opportunities. Proper preparation for motorcycle storage is necessary to avoid damage and costly repairs during the riding season.

Most motorcycle braking systems are similar to the disc brake system found in cars, with the majority of motorcycles using front- and rear-disc brake systems. However, some motorcycles still use drum brakes.

The main difference in motorcycle braking systems lies in how the brakes are triggered. Unlike cars, most motorcycles use separate controls for the front and rear brakes. The front brake is activated by a lever on the right side of the handlebar, while the rear brake is operated with a foot pedal on the right side. This allows the rider to engage the front brakes first, which carry most of the braking load and increase safety in most situations. Alternatively, some motorcycles engage both brakes with the handlebar lever, delaying the onset of the rear brake for the rider. Although riders debate whether this configuration offers a safer ride, it is largely a matter of personal preference.
Regardless of the method used to trigger motorcycle brakes, they function the same way. A cable or lever engages the master cylinder, causing a piston to apply pressure on the brake fluid. As brake fluid is incompressible, the pressure is then transferred through the brake lines to another piston located in the brake caliper. The caliper then applies pressure on the brake pads.

This pressure causes the brake pads to come into contact with the rotor, which is attached to the wheel. The friction between the rotor and pads converts the kinetic energy of the motorcycle into heat, slowing the bike. Because motorcycle wheels are fully exposed, the rotors and pads dissipate heat effectively.

Brake boosters are not necessary on most motorcycles. For lighter models, most riders can supply sufficient force for braking.

It should be noted that motorcycle brake rotors are rarely solid, smooth discs. The open design that helps cool the brakes also exposes them to water from the environment and wet roadways. Slots and cross-drilling increase safety by carrying water (and steam created through contact with hot rotors) away from the rotor, reducing the chance of interference with rotor/pad contact and brake efficiency. These tips come from expert motorcycle detailers.