Parts

When bringing an electric vehicle home, it is crucial to understand the types of chargers available. Electric vehicle (EV) chargers are classified into three categories: Level 1, Level 2, and Level 3. The charging speed increases with each level.

A Level 1 charger typically comes with the purchase of an EV. While these chargers are portable, they take a long time to recharge the battery. In comparison, a Level 2 charger is much faster than Level 1, and both work on the same principle. The alternating current (AC) from an outlet or electric panel is sent through the EV power port to the onboard charger, which converts it into direct current (DC) for battery charging. Tesla vehicles come with dual Level 1/Level 2 chargers.
Level 3 chargers are designed for public stations and provide much more power than Level 1 and Level 2 chargers. Level 3 chargers convert AC to DC, bypassing the onboard charger and directly delivering DC to the battery.
To make EV charging less complicated, EV owners can purchase chargers with helpful additional features. These can include adjustable ampere settings to “top-off” a charge, smart chargers with Wi-Fi/Bluetooth enabled apps, and cables with lengths suitable for easily reaching the charging port. Heavy-duty wire can be used to offer less resistance and reduce the likelihood of overheating. The chargers can also have mounting brackets to keep cables safely off the floor and secured in the outlet, indicators to monitor charging status, and over-voltage protection to prevent overcharging and overheating. Dual 120- and 240-volt capabilities and UL-listed and Energy Star rated chargers are also factors to consider. EV owners should also take into account warranty length and support hours when choosing the right charger.
The SAE J1772 connector is the industry standard for electric vehicles. The Combined Charging System (CCS) offers a second standard that allows AC/DC charging on the same port. Tesla employs a proprietary connector design, but J1772 and CCS adapters are available.
Level 1 Chargers:Most electric vehicles come with a basic Level 1 120V charger, which may require 40 hours to fully charge a 60-kilowatt-hour (kWh) battery.
Pros:Convenient; can plug into a standard household 120-volt outlet (with a 20-amp circuit recommended).
Simple do-it-yourself cord management installation.
Best for EV owners in apartments or condominiums.
Easy to use and portable.
Cheapest among all chargers, ranging from $200 to $600.
More expensive models offer dual Level 1 and Level 2 charging capabilities.
Adheres to the generic SAE J1772 connector standard.
Cons:Extremely slow.
Has a driving range of about five miles per charging hour, or approximately 40 miles on an overnight charge.
May require charging connection adapters.
Lacks many of the features listed above.
Level 2 Chargers:
If you drive more than 100 miles a day, consider investing in a Level 2 charger for your home. While it may be costly, it significantly reduces the hassle of home charging. Level 2 chargers provide the same charge as public Level 2 charging stations.
Pros:
Significantly faster than Level 1 chargers, taking about 10 hours to fully recharge a drained 60 kWh EV battery.
Has a driving range of approximately 25 miles per charging hour, or about 200 miles on an eight-hour charge.
Easy to use and many mid-priced models come loaded with features like Wi-Fi and/or Bluetooth connectivity.
As the popularity of EVs continues to rise, installing a Level 2 charger can add value to your home.
Cons:
Expensive, ranging from $300 to $2,000, plus $500 to $2,000 for installation if hardwired.
Requires a dedicated 240-volt, minimum 50-amp circuit.
May require a special outlet, like a NEMA 6-50. You may also need to upgrade your electric panel to a 200-amp service. This is not something you should do yourself. Consult a licensed electrician to determine your options.
The least expensive models lack many of the features listed above and may not be compatible with all charging ports. You may need to purchase charging connection adapters.
Level 3 Chargers.Public Level 3 fast-charging stations are capable of quickly recharging an electric vehicle (EV) battery. They operate on three-phase/480 volts and can cost well over $100,000, including design and installation costs.
Advantages:
Many public EV charging stations are still free, and they are being installed in various locations such as apartment buildings, schools, commuter parking lots, and shopping malls.
Apps such as ChargePoint and PlugShare can locate charging stations.
These stations can fully charge an EV in as little as 30 minutes.
Public charging networks offer several payment options, including credit cards, apps, or a monthly membership.
Disadvantages:
The EV public charging infrastructure still has a long way to go to meet future EV needs, especially in rural areas.
Not all EVs can be charged at all public EV charging stations.
Some networks charge additional fees if an EV stays plugged in after it’s finished charging.
It can cost twice as much as charging at home.
Planning road trips is crucial to ensure passing EV charging stations along the route.

It’s not just nuts, bolts, and welds that keep car parts connected. You may be surprised to learn that a variety of adhesives are also used. During a recent repair, I found that the outer door skin of a vehicle was attached to the door frame with an adhesive, rather than traditional hardware. Using a “hot knife” to release the adhesive and reattach the skin, I realized that vehicle manufacturers are using more adhesives than ever before. At the same time, conventional hardware has also improved and evolved. This article provides a better understanding of how modern automobiles are held together.

Traditional fasteners like lock washers, cotter pins, and loose flat washers are no longer commonly used in today’s vehicles. Instead, the following modern fasteners are now used:
Torque-to-yield (TTY) bolts.These specialty bolts replace standard cylinder head bolts and stretch during installation, making them one-time use bolts. TTY bolts are found on aluminum cylinder heads that expand and contract faster than the cast iron blocks they’re bolted to, maintaining their clamping load and resisting shear stress.

Prevailing torque fasteners (PTF).PTFs have replaced lock washers and cotter pins, and the taper on one side of the nut distorts the threads, generating friction that “locks” the bolt and nut threads together.
Hollow fasteners.To lower the vehicle’s weight, hollow fasteners are used to secure plastic and composite components. These course threaded screws are coated with a dry lubricant that allows precise installation with torque drivers.
Flange nuts and bolts.Flange nuts and bolts have a built-in flat washer or “flange” that spreads the clamping load over a wider area, eliminating the need for flat washers.

Flange bottoms with bearing-like surfaces are designed to reduce friction, ensuring accurate torque and a durable connection that can withstand vibrations.
Adhesives (More Than Just Glue).According to the Center for Automotive Research, in 2001, cars used approximately 30 linear feet of adhesives. Today, this figure has increased to over 400 linear feet, a 1,200% increase. Adhesives can form incredibly strong bonds that keep parts and components from vibrating or rattling loose.
Adhesives are used because modern vehicles contain more lightweight plastic and composite parts than ever before. Attaching them with mechanical fasteners is not practical because adhesives are lighter than metal fasteners and improve the vehicle’s structural integrity by covering the full surface area. Bolts, spot welds, or rivets must be spaced every two inches, resulting in uneven stress points.
Structural adhesives are used during the “body-in-white” assembly process (before it’s painted or joined to the chassis) instead of traditional welds. According to SAE International, this method increases body rigidity, ride comfort, and passenger safety.
The use of adhesives reduces the likelihood of corrosion from nut and bolt holes and spot welds, as well as oxidation when fastening unlike materials, such as steel to aluminum. Adhesives also offer tremendous resistance to shear stress, which is critical for components operating in high-temperature environments, such as drivetrain gaskets and brake pads.
Adhesives are widely used in electric vehicle (EV) battery construction because they protect individual cells from vibration, seal out the elements, and offer excellent heat conductivity.
Adhesives are used in several high-stress areas of a vehicle, including:
Hot melt plasticizers and electrically isolating adhesive tapes for bonding individual chassis components or attaching an EV’s composite battery tray
Silicone for high-impact airbags and form-in-place drivetrain gaskets, protecting sensitive electronics from vibration, dust, and moisture
Polyethylene and other injected molded plastic polymers for securing trim, wire harnesses, tubing, hoses, and glass in clips, retainers, and rivets, as well as in bumper covers and inserts that provide impact protection during a collision
Nylon- and fiberglass-reinforced polymer composites, which are fabricated into retaining brackets securing the engine and drivetrain
Flexible non-hardening butyl adhesives for weather-tight seals between plastics, such as the heater core housing and airflow duct system components
Liquid and structural adhesives made from the same ingredients as super glue for bonding metal fenders and quarter-panels to composite frames
High-strength anaerobic adhesives, which dry in the absence of air, for bonding transmission gears to shafts and bearings into housings
Anti-vibration foams and films made from polyethylene, vinyl, or acrylic that conform to irregular shapes and fill gaps for sound dampening and stiffening hollow vehicle frames and chassis to absorb road shocks, as well as seal and cushion electronic components and connectors under the hood
Various varnished plastics and pressure adhesives for emission, data, safety, and information labels/stickers that must last the vehicle’s lifetime without peeling or fading.

During recent maintenance on a car, the discovery of a sharp engine knock caused by a worn timing gear made of plastic fiber compounds was surprising. Such non-traditional materials are being used in the automotive industry to increase dependability, efficiency and environmental friendliness.

Sustainable materials such as micro glass bubbles and boron nitride composites that dissipate battery heat are being used in electric vehicles (EVs), which have become more affordable due to tax credits. The use of steel, complex structural composites, plastics, alloys, and polymers lowers the overall weight of a vehicle and increases fuel economy while preserving body rigidity, ride comfort and passenger safety.

Steel is the most commonly used material in car manufacturing and is found in various car parts such as the exhaust, brake and suspension systems, engine, wheels, chassis and roof. There are different types of steel such as advanced high-strength steel, high carbon steel, and alloy steel used for specific applications. Car plastics are made from petroleum by-products and are corrosion-resistant, durable and flexible. Plastics are used in various car parts such as the engine, trim, headlamps, carpets, gas tanks and bumpers, and may eventually replace steel as the primary material in car manufacturing.

Aluminum is lightweight, strong, durable and malleable, making it ideal for manufacturing car parts such as wheels, cylinder heads, mirrors, water pumps and transmission housings. Fiberglass, which is three times less dense than steel, is lightweight and strong, and is easily fabricated into various shapes for car parts such as rear bumpers, hoods, doors and vehicle bodies. It is also used to reinforce timing belts and in brake pads and clutch disks. Conventional car batteries and wheel weights used to balance tire/wheel assemblies contain lead.
Copper wires are commonly used in the electronics of vehicles, while copper alloys such as brass are utilized in bushings. Copper’s excellent resistance to sticking to the surface of other metals make it a suitable material for engine bearings. Additionally, copper’s high thermal conductivity allows it to be used in radiators and heater cores.

Magnesium is a lightweight material with a high strength-to-weight ratio, making it well-suited for automotive applications. It can be found in various parts such as transmissions, suspension systems, steering columns, control actuators, airbag housings, steering wheels, and seat frames. However, magnesium is vulnerable to corrosion, especially when exposed to salt, and requires protective coatings such as chrome, epoxy, or polyester resins.

Although expensive, titanium is highly corrosion-resistant and lightweight, with superior strength compared to other metals with the same density. Due to its hard-to-fabricate nature, it is mainly used in internal combustion engine (ICE) components, such as valves, valve springs, and piston connecting rods. Titanium is also used in the exhaust systems of luxury sports cars and is ideal for EV chassis, protecting the costly batteries that account for 25% of an EV’s weight.

The precious metals platinum, palladium, and rhodium, which are enclosed inside catalytic converters, have a wide range of applications. They serve as catalysts in ICEs, transforming unburned fuel into carbon dioxide and water vapors. They are also widely used in hybrid vehicle electric motors and frictionless bearings, engine sensors, catalytic converters, anti-lock brake controllers, and radio speakers.

While EVs do not require catalytic converters, they do contain expensive materials such as nickel and cobalt, which make up to 80% and 15%, respectively, of EV batteries, as well as natural graphite, silicone, and lithium. High-aluminum-content bauxite in wheels helps keep EVs as light as possible.

Indeed, spark plug wires can wear out over time. This is because, despite their name, spark plug wires are not actually made of wire, but of delicate carbon fibers.

Over time, these fibers can break down, causing the wires to separate and leading to high electrical resistance. High resistance can degrade the spark, resulting in poor combustion, misfires, reduced fuel efficiency, and eventually, a glowing “Check Engine” light. If left untreated, the wires can begin to leak voltage to nearby engine parts, leading to arcing, serious performance problems, and even ignition component failures.To avoid such problems, it is recommended to replace spark plug wires before they wear out. We recommend doing so when you change the spark plugs, or at intervals specified by your owner’s manual (typically between 100,000 and 160,000 kilometers).In this article, we will outline the materials and tools you will need and provide a step-by-step guide to help you do a quality job of replacing the wires yourself. By doing the job yourself, you can save at least an hour of shop labor charges and avoid costly diagnostic fees associated with worn spark plug wires. The entire process is relatively easy and should take only about an hour.
Before starting the task, use a digital camera to document how the wires are attached to the coil/distributor/coil pack and the path they follow to each plug. Observe how each wire wraps around the others and how they are positioned in the plastic retaining clips. They are arranged in this manner to prevent cross-firing and interference with other engine sensors. So, ensure that you reinstall them in the same way.Unwind the new spark plug wires and sort them by length. When you visit the auto parts store, we suggest that you purchase a premium set of wires. The economy wire set we examined did not match the factory connectors, and the individual wires were either too long or too short for our vehicle. The premium set comes with a lifetime warranty, while the economy set only offers a two-year warranty.Next, invest in a spark plug wire puller tool. This tool makes removal a lot easier and saves you from a lot of scraped knuckles. To use it, just grip the boot with the rounded jaws, rotate left and right, then pull straight out. This is a tool that is worth investing in. Use the wire puller to turn the boot and break the seal from the plug, then remove the old plug. Match the old wire length to the new wire.Some manufacturers pre-coat the insides of the plug and coil/distributor boots with dielectric silicone grease. The grease prevents the boots from sticking to the plug or coil/distributor, as well as providing an additional layer of insulation to prevent voltage from traveling down the inside of the boot. If your set isn’t pre-coated, purchase a small tube of silicone grease and apply a bead around the inside of each boot. Apply dielectric grease to both the plug and the coil/distributor end of each wire. Route the wire and press it onto the plug/coil tower until it clicks.Remove one old wire at a time and match it to a replacement wire of the same length. Route the new wire and push the boot onto the plug or coil/distributor until you feel it click. Repeat this process for each wire.

Electric vehicles require less maintenance than their gas-powered counterparts. However, like all four-wheeled vehicles, routine maintenance is still necessary. While maintenance on electric vehicles (EVs) is less complicated and costly than on vehicles with internal combustion engines (ICE), EVs are not maintenance-free. Many EV maintenance tasks are comparable to traditional vehicles, but there are some specific services unique to EVs that need to be considered. Also, it is important to stay up to date on electric vehicle FAQs that cover charger types and costs associated with owning an electric vehicle.

The maintenance and service differences between EV and ICE motors are significant. While an EV’s main electric motor does not require maintenance, ICE-powered vehicles have a substantial number of mechanical parts that wear out or require regular servicing. To avoid motor overheating and to prolong battery life, it is important to avoid constantly charging an EV battery to 100 percent capacity and letting it drop to zero charge.
ICE components that require frequent maintenance, repair or replacement include:
Motor oil and filter
Engine tune-ups (spark plugs, air and fuel filters, PCV valve)
Engine ignition parts and components (spark plug wires, ignition coils)
Drive and timing belts
Clogged fuel injectors
Fuel pump
Gaskets, O-rings, and seals that can leak
Throttle body issues
Battery Maintenance
Technically, EV batteries do not require maintenance or service. However, due to their size and high voltage, EV batteries and other critical electrical components need to be kept cool. While some EVs cool these systems with air, many use the manufacturer’s proprietary battery coolant to prevent overheating and to warm it up on colder days.
When it comes to EV battery maintenance, it is critical to leave all service, including adding coolant, to the experts. Only a trained, certified technician wearing the proper protective equipment (PPE) should work on high-voltage EV batteries and electrical systems. US federal regulations mandate electric car batteries be covered for at least eight years, and servicing the battery yourself will void the warranty. To maintain good charging habits, keep the battery between 20 and 80 percent charged. It is also essential to inspect the battery coolant pump(s) for leaks and check the battery coolant hoses and fittings for corrosion and leaks.
Traditional car batteries usually last four to six years. To prolong their life, check the battery fluid monthly, clean the battery, battery terminals, and cables annually, and ensure the battery is held firmly in place.
The maintenance of brakes is important for both electric vehicles (EVs) and internal combustion engine (ICE)-powered vehicles. It is recommended to check the brakes every time the tires are rotated and change the brake fluid every 24 months or 24,000 miles for both types of vehicles.
EVs feature regenerative braking systems that use the electric motor’s resistance to slow down the vehicle. Due to this, the brake pads and rotors in EVs do not get as hot as those in ICE-powered vehicles. Careful inspection of brake pads, rotors, and hardware for wear, tear, and rust is necessary, especially if the brakes are noisy or squeaky.
Regular tire maintenance is essential for both ICE-powered and electric vehicles, not only for driving safety but also to increase tire life and improve fuel economy. Even slight vibrations can shorten tire and battery life, which is why tires should be balanced every time they are rotated.
EV tires require more attention than ICE-powered vehicle tires for three reasons. First, EVs are heavier than gas-powered vehicles, which causes tires to wear out quicker. Second, EVs have electric motors that deliver instant torque to the wheels and tires, causing them to wear out faster. Third, according to a recent study by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), tighter control of tire-pressure loss can lead to marked improvement in EV efficiency.
Many routine maintenance items for both EVs and ICE-powered vehicles can be easily done by the owner. For EVs with a gearbox or transmission, consult the owner’s manual to determine the recommended service interval. Inspection of all fluids, battery, cabin, electrical, steering, suspension, and chassis systems for excess wear or damage, as well as checking all hoses, fittings, and fluid pumps for leaks should be done every 7,500 miles or once a year for EVs and ICE-powered vehicles.
For ICE-powered vehicles, monthly checks of motor oil, battery fluid, belts, and hoses are necessary, and motor oil and filter should be changed every six months or every 5,000 to 7,500 miles. The fuel filter, air filter, cabin air filter, and PCV valve should be replaced every 12,000 to 15,000 miles, or sooner if driving in dusty, dirty conditions.
For both EVs and ICE-powered vehicles, regular checks of windshield wiper solvent, brake fluid, and lights are necessary. The vehicle’s exterior should be inspected and washed with clean water monthly, and tires should be rotated and matched for balance every 5,000 to 7,500 miles. Wiper blades should be replaced every six months, and the cabin air filter should be replaced every 24 months or sooner if driving in dusty, dirty conditions. Finally, all door hinges, latches, and anchors should be lubed with a few drops of motor oil or white lithium grease annually.

If the vehicle is battery-operated, does it still require oil changes? This is an important question to consider for electric vehicle (EV) owners. The maintenance and service requirements of an EV’s motor differ significantly from that of an internal combustion engine (ICE) in a gas-powered vehicle.

An ICE motor has a significantly greater number of moving parts than an EV motor. Thus, motor oil is necessary to lubricate all its moving parts, allowing it to operate with minimal friction and prevent overheating and internal engine damage.
Interestingly, there appears to be little public interest in EV motors and their functioning. While the hottest topics around EVs are battery life and driving range, there is limited information available on EV motors and their maintenance. This lack of information might be because there are not many options to choose from when purchasing a new vehicle. It is not like buyers are picking between a V-8, V-6 Turbo, or four-cylinder engine for an EV.
However, there is one critical question to address: Do electric cars require oil changes? Continue reading to learn more.
Electric cars do not use oil to lubricate the motor’s moving components like traditional internal combustion engines do. This is because electric motors have fewer moving parts, including pistons, that need lubrication. In contrast, ICEs require motor oil and other fluids to cool, clean, and cushion the engine’s parts when running at high speeds.
Most electric motors in EVs use air cooling, but with the recent emergence of larger EV trucks that come with bigger, more powerful electric motors, liquid thermal-management cooling systems, which are separate from the battery, are becoming more prevalent. These closed-loop systems are designed to maintain consistent operating temperatures for the motor, regardless of the environment or driving conditions.
Some EV gearboxes require specific fluid for their transmissions. It is recommended to consult the owner’s manual to determine the suggested service intervals.
Do Electric Cars Require Oil Changes?
No, battery-powered EVs require less frequent and fewer services compared to fossil fuel-powered cars. By eliminating the need for motor oil and filter changes, overall costs of owning an EV are reduced. However, it should be noted that EVs are not maintenance-free. It is recommended to refer to the owner’s manual for other maintenance services unique to EVs.

Car noises can be frustrating, but they can also be a sign of an underlying problem. If your car is making a low-pitched hum that gets louder as you accelerate and turn, it may be a wheel bearing noise. A droning noise that gets louder as you accelerate may be due to old or poor quality tires or uneven tire wear. A high-pitched squealing noise when you first start the engine may indicate a worn or cracked serpentine belt, while a whining noise while making a turn may be due to strain on the hydraulic power steering pump. Finally, a clicking noise when turning in one direction and not the other could be caused by a worn CV joint.

If your car is making a humming noise while driving that gets louder as you accelerate and turn, it may be a wheel bearing noise. This type of noise is often mistaken for an engine noise, but one way to tell is by watching your RPM gauge. As you accelerate, the RPM and speed gauges rise, but if the noise is still present after coasting at a set speed and letting off the gas pedal, it is not coming from the engine.
A droning noise that doesn’t change pitch or volume while turning, but gets louder as you accelerate, may be due to old or poor quality tires or uneven tire wear. Feathered tires can be a symptom of a worn suspension component, which causes tires to hop up and down as you drive instead of rolling smoothly down the road.
If you hear a high-pitched squeal or what sounds like a bird chirping when you first start the engine, the serpentine belt is likely worn or cracked. Some vehicles have multiple belts, including a separate one for the air conditioning. If the noise is only present when the air conditioning is turned on, then there may be an issue with that belt. The belt tensioner may also be worn or the belt may not have enough tension, causing it to slip.
If your vehicle has hydraulic power steering and you hear a whining noise while making a turn, you may have “locked” the steering wheel by turning it to the point where it doesn’t turn anymore. This strains the power steering pump, and if you hold this position for more than a few seconds, you risk damaging the pump. Back off about an inch from the lock position to ease the increase in pump pressure, and the noise should disappear. If you hear a constant whine, your pump is probably already damaged.
A clicking noise when turning one way and not the other could be caused by a worn CV joint. The noise is cyclical and speeds up as the wheels go faster or slows down as you reduce your speed during the turn.
Abstract: This article aims to provide a comprehensive guide on common car noises and their potential causes. It is intended to assist car owners in identifying the possible source of the noise and to determine the appropriate course of action to resolve the issue. The article covers five common car noises, including clicking, rattling or clunking, grinding or squeaking, rumbling, and wobbling, and provides information on their possible causes and solutions.When a car makes unusual noises, it can be concerning and indicate a problem that needs attention. Identifying the source of the noise and determining the cause is crucial in maintaining the car’s safety, reliability, and overall performance. This article provides an overview of the possible causes and solutions for five common car noises.Car Makes Clicking Noise When Turning: If a car produces a clicking noise when turning, it is likely caused by a torn CV axle shaft boot that leaks grease. Without proper lubrication, the components become dry and start making a clicking sound. In this case, a technician could replenish the grease and replace the boot. However, if the CV axle is damaged, it should be replaced.Car Rattles or Makes Low-pitched Clunks: When a car makes low-pitched clunks or rattles, particularly over bumps, it could indicate a problem in the suspension system. The suspension system includes various components such as ball joints, stabilizer links, and coil springs. If a suspension noise suddenly disappears, it is likely that a component is broken and disconnected from the rest of the car.Car Makes Grinding or Squeaking Noises: A light grinding or squeaking noise when braking is usually caused by poor or worn braking materials. If detected early enough, the brakes can be serviced by cleaning, lubricating, and adjusting the materials. Some brake pads have “squealers” that produce a cyclical noise when the pad material gets low. If the noise persists even while driving, the brakes may need replacing.Car Makes a Rumbling Noise: A rumbling noise at idle that gets louder when accelerating could be caused by an exhaust leak in the gasket or one of the exhaust components such as the flexpipe, resonator, or muffler. If the leak can be repaired, then it should be done; otherwise, the leaking component needs to be replaced.Car Sounds Like an Unbalanced Washing Machine: If a car produces a wobbling noise while driving, it could indicate a problem with the wheels or tires. Loose wheel nuts could result in the wheel falling off, while low tire pressure could lead to a tire blowout. If the wheel nuts are loose, they should be tightened using a lug wrench. If the tire pressure is low, it should be filled to the proper specification or replaced with a spare tire.In conclusion, identifying and resolving common car noises can help maintain a car’s safety, reliability, and performance. This article provides car owners with a basic understanding of five common car noises and their potential causes. If a car owner is unsure of the cause of the noise or is unable to resolve the issue, they should seek professional assistance from a qualified technician.

Knowing how often to replace the air filter in a car is crucial in safeguarding the engine and maintaining its optimal performance for years to come.

In an internal combustion engine, just as with humans, clean air is essential. The engine air filter, different from the cabin air filter, blocks solid pollutants from entering the engine. If the air filter is dirty, it can trigger the Check Engine Light and cause a range of performance issues. Never operate a car without an air filter ($25) installed, as minute particles of dirt and rust from the air cleaner housing can infiltrate the engine’s combustion chamber, leading to damage of the main bearings and crankshaft and potentially ruin a $4,000 engine in no time.

An engine air filter is a device typically made of pleated, solvent-treated pulp paper that traps harmful contaminants in the air, with some featuring a stainless-steel grid backing that enhances the filter’s rigidity, preventing premature seal failure. It not only purifies the air but also helps extinguish flames if an engine backfires.

Replacing the engine air filter is vital as it provides better fuel economy, maintains the optimum air-to-fuel ratio, improves acceleration and performance by allowing maximum air entry into the combustion chamber, increases mass air flow (MAF) sensor accuracy, reduces tailpipe emissions, and extends the engine’s lifespan by preventing the smallest grit from penetrating the engine, which can cause expensive engine parts to wear out prematurely.

Typically, most manufacturers recommend replacing the engine air filter every two years or 30,000 miles under standard driving conditions, although the frequency of replacement depends on driving conditions. Check the air filter every 12,000 miles or at each oil change, lightly tapping it on the ground to shake off any loose dirt. Use the “light” test, shining a flashlight or trouble light through the backside of the filter. If the glow is visible, the filter is still okay. Use common sense when evaluating the filter’s condition; if the filter looks discolored, the seal is weak, or the paper/media has dried out, it should be replaced.
To ensure optimal engine performance, it is important to replace the air filter at least once a year, or sooner under certain conditions, such as frequent stop-and-go driving, idling for long periods, or driving in extremely dusty, sandy, or hot/cold weather conditions. If opting for professional replacement, the cost can range from $25 to $50 for labor and the marked-up price of the filter. A reputable shop may add an additional $10 to $30 to the retail price of the filter but stands by their work. Alternatively, replacing the air filter yourself is an easy task, but make sure to purchase a quality replacement filter with a polyurethane frame to ensure a tight seal between the filter and its housing. When shopping for air filters, be aware that manufacturer-branded parts can be more expensive than subsidiary-branded parts, even if they are the exact same product. It is also important to vacuum any grit build-up around the air filter housing and avoid using compressed air to blow gunk out of the air filter housing, which can spread dirt all over the engine compartment.