Parts

The incorporation of car backup cameras has significantly enhanced safety, reducing backing crashes by over 17% according to the IIHS. However, even this modern automotive feature, which has been mandated in vehicles since 2018, is not impervious to malfunctions. Regrettably, on June 15, 2023, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) issued a recall for over 1 million Honda SUVs due to a problem with their backup cameras. If you or someone you know owns a Honda, it is important to read on to determine if your model is affected and to understand Honda’s plans for rectifying the issue.

Reasons for the Honda Recall

The NHTSA estimates that approximately 50% of the 1,198,280 recalled Honda units are equipped with a faulty coaxial cable in their backup cameras. The official recall statement clarifies, “The Media Oriented Systems Transport (MOST) communication coaxial cable was improperly designed and manufactured, leading to deformed terminals and potentially causing intermittent poor or lost connections between the audio display unit and the vehicle cable connector.”

In essence, the power supply to the infotainment screen system may experience intermittent disruptions, and some Honda owners have reported instances where their screens stopped functioning, even after power was restored. Affected infotainment screens may also exhibit flickering or produce popping and crackling sounds. Unfortunately, this is not a car problem that can be resolved by the vehicle owners themselves.

Which Honda Models are Affected?

Honda is recalling the following models and model years:

• 2018-2023 Honda Odysseys
• 2019-2022 Honda Pilots
• 2019-2023 Honda Passports

Although Honda identified these specific backup camera failures earlier this year, the company has been addressing similar screen and cable issues for several years. According to Autoweek, they received a report in 2019 highlighting screen flickering problems, which they attempted to address by requesting their cable supplier to increase the length of the coaxial cable in 2020 models. Additionally, the company implemented waterproof couplers in the Odyssey, Pilot, and Passport models. However, when these measures did not resolve the issue, they extended the warranty on affected 2021 models.

What Should I Do if My Honda Vehicle Is Recalled?

In the event that your Honda vehicle is subject to a recall, you will be notified by the company between July 24 and August 4. According to Honda’s official submission to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), the company will rectify the affected models and their backup cameras at no expense to the owners, thereby ensuring the continued safety and enjoyment of driving a Honda.

Upon receiving the notification, Honda owners will have the option to visit authorized Honda dealerships, where qualified experts will install an enhanced cable harness that connects to the car’s existing terminal connections, along with a straightening cover over the cable connector. These additional components are anticipated to enhance the stability of the cable connection. In the interim, it is also possible to purchase a mountable backup camera or explore other intriguing car technology add-ons.

This article explores the impact of a lit Check Engine Light (CEL) on the outcome of a car inspection. It delves into the varying regulations across states, the influence of vehicle age and weight, and the importance of prior inspection records.

Introduction: The Check Engine Light (CEL) is a cause for concern among vehicle owners. This article aims to provide insights into the potential consequences of a lit CEL during a car inspection.

1. State and County Motor Vehicle Laws: The ability to pass an emissions inspection with a lit CEL depends on the specific regulations of each state and county. Factors such as vehicle age, gross weight, and mileage since the last inspection also come into play.
2. State-Specific Examples: In Pennsylvania, for instance, a vehicle cannot receive a safety inspection sticker if it fails an emissions test, even if it passes the safety inspection. This regulation has been cited as one of the most challenging to explain.
3. Understanding Car Inspections: Car inspections typically encompass two types: safety inspections and emission inspections. Safety inspections evaluate crucial components like brakes, steering, tires, and exhaust to ensure roadworthiness. Emission inspections focus on verifying the proper functioning of emission control systems and measuring tailpipe emissions for smog levels.
4. Varying Inspection Requirements: Each state has its own set of inspection requirements. While some mandate both safety and emission inspections, others may only require one or none. Some states even demand proof of insurance before conducting an inspection. Vehicle owners should consult their state’s Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) to determine the specific inspections required.

Conclusion: To ensure compliance and peace of mind, it is advisable to obtain an independent pre-purchase safety and emission inspection before buying a used car. Understanding the regulations and requirements of car inspections in one’s state is crucial for vehicle owners to navigate the complexities associated with passing inspections, particularly with a lit Check Engine Light.

This section provides an overview of the entities responsible for conducting emission inspections, including certified repair shops and testing stations. It also discusses the various components and tests involved in an emission inspection, such as visual anti-tampering checks, onboard diagnostic tests, and tailpipe idle tests.

1. Emission Inspection Authorities: The responsibility for conducting emission inspections varies by state. For example, in New York and Pennsylvania, independent repair shops and mechanics certified by the state perform emission inspections and repairs. Arizona, on the other hand, operates its own emission testing stations. Vehicle owners should consult their state’s Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) to identify authorized inspection locations.
2. Emission Inspection Procedures: The specific procedures during an emission inspection depend on factors such as the state, region, and vehicle year. An emission inspection and maintenance inspection (I/M) may include the following tests:

• Visual Anti-Tampering Inspection: This examination ensures that all emission components are present, functioning correctly, and haven’t been modified. Inspectors typically check components such as the catalytic converter, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve/system, positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve/system, air pump and related parts, evaporative control system canister and filter/system, fuel lines, and gas cap.
• Onboard Diagnostic (OBD) Test: During this test, the vehicle connects to the emission testing equipment through the on-board diagnostic link connector (DLC). It checks the readiness monitor status, which verifies the proper functioning of the OBD system. Additionally, it examines the Check Engine Light (CEL) status when the engine is off and the key is on, as well as the presence of any diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) stored in the OBD system.
• Tailpipe Idle Test: The tailpipe idle test measures exhaust gas emissions, including hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), oxides of nitrogen (NOX), and oxygen (O2).

3. Emission Inspection Duration: On average, an emissions test typically takes between 15 and 30 minutes to complete.
4. Standards and Repairs: States may follow either California’s stringent emissions I/M standards or the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) Vehicle Emissions Inspection and Maintenance I/M standards. In case of a failed inspection, the inspector provides a report, but it is typically not their responsibility to diagnose or suggest specific repairs. The vehicle owner or a qualified mechanic must identify the cause of the failure and perform the necessary repairs to pass the inspection.

Conclusion: Emission inspections involve thorough checks of emission components and the vehicle’s diagnostic system. It is essential for vehicle owners to understand the inspection procedures and consult their state’s regulations to ensure compliance and address any potential issues identified during the inspection.

This paper focuses on the importance of tightening loose car parts and its impact on vehicle maintenance and overall performance. Loose car parts can lead to premature wear, failures, and costly repairs. By securely tightening and bolting together various components, the possibility of these issues can be significantly reduced. This paper provides insights into the causes of part loosening, methods to identify loose fasteners, and recommended torque specifications for tightening. Additionally, performing regular “safety tightening” as part of an annual maintenance schedule is proposed as an effective preventive measure to eliminate rattles, noises, and potential problems. The findings highlight the significance of proper fastening techniques and their contribution to extending the lifespan of vehicle parts while reducing operating expenses.

Introduction: In the automotive industry, the maintenance and proper functioning of car parts are essential for ensuring safe and enjoyable driving experiences. Loose car parts can lead to various problems, such as unusual noises, reduced performance, and even accidents. This paper aims to emphasize the importance of tightening loose car parts and presents effective techniques to address this issue.

Causes of Part Loosening: Several factors contribute to the loosening of car parts, including vibration, expansion and contraction of components, inadequate initial tightening, damaged or corroded threads, and the use of incorrect-grade fasteners. Understanding these causes is crucial for implementing appropriate tightening measures.

Identifying Loose Fasteners: Pinpointing loose fasteners can be challenging but is essential to prevent potential failures. Certain telltale signs indicate loose parts, such as shiny wear marks, rust stains, and worn paint. Regular inspection and attention to these visual indicators can aid in identifying and addressing loose fasteners promptly.

Proper Torque Specifications: Every type and grade of bolt has a specific torque specification (spec) that determines the optimal tightness. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening loose fasteners. The suggested approach involves tightening the bolts to 50% of the specified torque and then reaching the full torque value. For instance, if the tightening torque for a particular bolt is rated at 150 foot-pounds (ft-lb), the initial torque should be set at 75 ft-lb for all bolts, followed by a final tightening at 150 ft-lb.

Benefits of Safety Tightening: Incorporating a do-it-yourself (DIY) “safety tightening” procedure into an annual maintenance schedule offers numerous advantages. By proactively addressing loose car parts, rattles, and noises can be eliminated, enhancing the overall driving experience. Moreover, safety tightening helps identify potential problems at an early stage, preventing them from escalating into costly crises.

Conclusion: Tightening loose car parts is a crucial aspect of vehicle maintenance. This paper has highlighted the significance of securely tightening and bolting car components to avoid premature wear, failures, and costly repairs. By understanding the causes of part loosening, employing proper torque specifications, and performing regular safety tightening, drivers can save money, enhance vehicle performance, and ensure a safer and more enjoyable driving experience.

How to Properly Tighten Loose Car Parts

To effectively tighten loose car parts, you will require a set of standard and metric socket wrenches in 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch, and 1/2-inch drive sizes (preferably six-point sockets), along with safety glasses, gloves, a floor jack, and safety stands. Box-end wrenches can also be used, but it is important to note that torque measurement is not possible with this type of wrench.

Avoid using an open-end wrench for final tightening, as its weaker jaws may spread open, leading to a rounded bolt head or a slipping-off situation that can cause injury. Ensure that the socket or wrench head fits fully and snugly onto the nut or bolt head.

Here are the recommended steps for addressing a loose part:

1. If the fastener is rusted, apply a rust penetrator spray and allow it to sit for five to ten minutes. Then, loosen the fastener to free it up and tighten it to the specified torque.
2. If the exposed threads are rusty, clean them using a wire brush and apply a spray before attempting to loosen or tighten the fastener.
3. If the parts remain loose even after tightening, remove the fastener and inspect the threads for any damage. Rust, corrosion, or accumulation of debris at the bottom of a bolt hole that has not been fully drilled and threaded through a part may cause the bolt to bottom out before reaching the desired tightness. Use a rust penetrator to clean and flush the holes, and restore the threads if necessary.
4. When replacing a nut or bolt, always ensure that you use the same gauge and length of fastener. Using a bolt that is too short may lead to easy loosening as it fails to fully engage the nut. Conversely, a bolt that is too long can bottom out and potentially damage the part it is being screwed into.
5. It is important to note that the threads of a bolt fill approximately 80% of the threads of a nut, and vice versa. Rust, corrosion, dirt, or damaged threads can reach full torque prematurely, technically making them loose. Fasteners with clean and lubricated threads will facilitate quicker installation, more accurate torque application, and proper tension maintenance.

By following these simple do-it-yourself repair steps, you can avoid the need for costly part replacements, potentially saving hundreds of dollars.

Maximizing the Efficiency of Gas-Powered Pressure Washers: A Comprehensive Guide to Checking and Changing Pump Oil

To ensure optimal performance of your gas-powered pressure washer during the summer season, understanding the process of changing pump and engine oil is essential.

Gas-powered pressure washers have proven to be incredibly useful for various cleaning tasks such as washing decks, patios, walkways, and cars. The high-pressure water expelled by these machines offers a quick and efficient cleaning solution.

Similar to other time-saving devices, pressure washers require regular maintenance to continue operating at their best. For gas-powered models, this maintenance routine begins with regular oil changes.

When I purchased my first pressure washer a decade ago, I initially recognized the importance of changing the engine oil but mistakenly assumed it was the only oil-related concern. However, I later discovered that pump oil changes are equally crucial for gas-powered pressure washers.

It’s important to understand that pump oil serves a different purpose than engine oil. It plays a vital role in cooling and lubricating the pump, an essential component of your pressure washer. Familiarizing yourself with the process of changing both types of oil is key to maximizing the efficiency and lifespan of your pressure washer.

Optimal Frequency and Methodology for Oil Changes in Pressure Washers

Determining the ideal frequency for oil changes in pressure washers is essential for maintaining their performance. Consult your owner’s manual to identify the manufacturer-recommended oil change intervals.

Various recommendations can be found online regarding oil changes for pressure washer engines and pumps. In my personal experience, changing both types of oil once a year has ensured excellent performance for my pressure washer. However, it’s important to note that my usage of the washer is not extensive.

If your pressure washer undergoes frequent and heavy use, it would be wise to change the engine and pump oil twice during the season. In my experience, more frequent oil changes are unnecessary.

Step-by-Step Guide for Conducting a Pressure Washer Oil Change

Performing an oil change for both the engine and pump of your pressure washer simultaneously is the most convenient approach. When the time comes for this maintenance task, gather the following tools and materials:

Required Tools and Materials:

• A fresh container of SAE 0w-30 synthetic motor oil, or the specific type recommended in your owner’s manual.
• A fresh container of SAE 30 non-detergent motor oil, or the specific type recommended in your owner’s manual (ensure it is non-detergent oil).
• An oil drain pan.
• A clean straight oil funnel.
• A clean slanted oil funnel.
• A socket wrench set.

Draining the Previous Pump Oil

Locate the pump casing on your pressure washer, which is typically a rectangular or cylindrical aluminum or brass cast casing positioned next to the engine. It should feature several brass hex-head bolts. Identify the oil drain plug bolt, a single hex-head bolt situated near the bottom of the casing. There may be a small plexiglass viewing window above or nearby, allowing you to observe the oil. Position an empty oil drain pan directly beneath your pressure washer, aligning it with the pump drain plug. Loosen the drain plug using a socket wrench and remove it. Begin with an 18-mm socket. Allow all the previous pump oil to drain into the pan. As the oil level decreases, loosen and remove a single bolt located on the top surface of the oil reservoir. Removing this vent bolt will release air suction, facilitating the complete drainage of the remaining old oil. Tilt your pressure washer to ensure maximum drainage of the remaining oil.

Adding Fresh Pump Oil

Replace and securely tighten the pump’s drain plug bolt. Insert a clean funnel into the vent hole where the bolt was removed. Carefully pour fresh SAE 30 non-detergent motor oil into the funnel. Continue pouring until the oil level reaches slightly above the indicator line (or dot) on the viewing window. Then remove the funnel and reinsert the vent bolt. Now, let us proceed to the engine oil.

An oil extractor pump can simplify the task of doing your own oil changes. No more lying under the car, and no more hot oil splattering on your skin.

When I purchased my 2014 Subaru Impreza, I was worried I’d have to stop performing one of my favorite activities — changing my own oil. The car was so low to the ground that there wasn’t enough space to slide under and access the oil drain plug. However, now that I’m aware of oil extractor pumps, I’m back in the game.

Don’t get me wrong: I don’t change my oil myself because I enjoy handling hot oil or believe I’m saving a lot of money. The cost of an oil change at a shop is negligible once you factor in the expense of new oil and a filter, both of which you must purchase.

The primary incentive is time. Conducting the oil change myself takes about 10 minutes, much shorter than driving one or two hours to the service center.

Since the filter is usually installed on top of the engine, which is increasingly prevalent, the oil change method is nearly mess-free. The same isn’t valid for older cars with filters mounted beneath the engine.

If you must slide under the car to detach the filter, you might as well open the drain plug while you’re there, rendering an oil extractor pump an unnecessary expenditure. However, if you have a newer car with a top-mounted filter, this basic tool is undoubtedly worth considering.

What Is an Oil Extractor Pump?

An oil extractor pump is essentially a siphon pump that facilitates easy oil changes. It comprises a narrow tube that fits into the dipstick opening in the crankcase, and a pump creates a vacuum to pull the oil out. Most models also feature a reservoir to hold the oil until it can be disposed of safely. These reservoirs typically hold between six to eight quarts of oil, making them suitable for most light-duty trucks and passenger vehicles.

How Does an Oil Extractor Pump Work?

Siphon devices for transferring gasoline or kerosene from one container to another are readily available in most hardware stores. These devices consist of a plastic bulb and two tubes, with one tube for drawing fuel out of the reservoir and the other for depositing it into a different container. By squeezing and releasing the bulb, negative pressure is created to suck the fuel out of the reservoir and feed it to the destination.

Oil extractor pumps work in a similar fashion. However, because oil is denser and more viscous than fuel, the pump must provide more force than is possible with a plastic bulb. If the oil extractor has a built-in reservoir, only one tube is needed. If not, two tubes are required, much like a fuel pump.

Types of Oil Extractors

There are three types of oil extractors available in the market:

1. Manual: This type of oil extractor is the least expensive and features a hand pump. It may resemble a bicycle pump or a syringe-like plunger. In the case of a bicycle pump-type manual oil extractor, you usually have to pump it several times to start the oil flow, whereas in a plunger-type oil extractor, you simply pull the plunger back to draw the oil into the reservoir.
2. Electric: These oil extractors come with a 12-volt plug that you can insert into the vehicle’s auxiliary power outlet or alligator clips that connect directly to the battery. Once turned on, the pump does all the work. Electric oil extractors are usually more compact than manual ones as they do not come with a reservoir.
3. Pneumatic: This type of oil extractor must be connected to a compressor to work. When compressed air circulates through the device, it creates suction, which pulls the oil out of the crankcase. Some oil extractors can be operated manually or with compressed air, making them dual-function extractors.

Recall of Over 500,000 Michelin Tires: Understanding the Reasons

In various regions, winter is associated with significant snowfall, increased illness rates, and treacherous icy roads. To combat the challenges posed by icy conditions, many drivers opt to purchase snow tires in preparation for winter driving. However, even with the utmost caution, navigating icy roads becomes significantly more challenging when tires lack sufficient traction. Consequently, owners of a specific model of Michelin tires are now facing a nationwide recall, necessitating immediate inspection of their tires.

Recall of Michelin Light Truck Tires: Affected Products and Identification

A recall has been issued for nearly 550,000 light truck tires manufactured by Michelin. Specifically, the tires affected by the recall are the Agilis CrossClimate C-Metric tires with Department of Transportation (DOT) numbers ranging from 0117 to 1423. These tires were marketed as snow tires, indicated by the presence of the Alpine Symbol; however, they do not meet the requirements for this classification. The Alpine Symbol is depicted by a snowflake inside a three-peaked mountain outline.

These tires are commonly found on various vehicle models, including Ford Transit, RAM ProMaster, Volkswagen Crafter, Nissan NV200, Chevrolet City Express, and Mercedes-Benz Sprinter.

Reasons for the Recall of Michelin Tires and How to Determine if Affected

Michelin has initiated the recall of these tires as they do not meet the safety standards set by the United States. The issue arose during initial tire testing, where incorrect tire pressure was used. Subsequent testing revealed the non-compliance with the required traction for snow tires, leading to the failure to meet federal regulations.

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, although labeled as snow tires, these tires lack adequate traction for optimal performance in various snow weather conditions.

To determine if your tires are subject to the recall, check if you have Michelin snow tires featuring the Alpine Symbol, mounted on one of the listed vehicle models, and possessing DOT numbers within the range of 0117 to 1423. Tires meeting these criteria are likely to be affected.

Michelin will be sending notification letters to owners of the recalled tires, starting from June 12. Keep an eye out for these letters as they will provide further information on available solutions.

What Steps Should I Take if I Possess a Recalled Tire?

If you are aware that you possess any tires that are part of the recall, you are eligible to receive a free tire replacement. However, it is important to note that consumers will need to await a notification letter informing them about the availability of the replacement tires.

As inflation picks up, gas prices are on the rise in the United States, reaching record highs. In the past year, the average cost of gas has increased by more than two-thirds, which has been quite a shock to our wallets. As a result, many people are looking for ways to reduce their fuel costs, especially those who enjoy road trips.

If you’re in the market for a new car, an electric vehicle (EV) might seem like an appealing option. However, before we compare the costs, let’s consider the range of an EV.

HOW FAR CAN YOU GO IN AN EV? The distance an EV can travel on a single charge depends on the make and model. Some long-range models can travel 300-400 miles, which is a considerable distance before needing to stop and charge. For road trips that prioritize getting from point A to point B without many sightseeing stops, Tesla’s long-range models are a good option. The 2020 Model S Long Range can travel about 402 miles on a full charge.

Most EVs have an estimated range of around 200 miles on a full charge. Here are some examples:

• 2019-2020 Jaguar I-Pace – 234 miles
• 2017-2019 Tesla Model X – 238 miles
• 2017-2019 Chevrolet Bolt EV – 238 miles
• 2019-2021 Nissan Leaf S-Plus – 226 miles
• 2019-2022 Kia Niro EV – 239 miles

KEY CONSIDERATIONS FOR ELECTRIC VEHICLE ROAD TRIPS

Whether you are in the market for a used or new electric vehicle (EV), or simply interested in EVs, there are important factors to consider when planning a road trip and while driving.

HIGHWAY DRIVING AFFECTS RANGE

EV range estimates are based on standardized tests that simulate real-world driving conditions, including city and highway driving. However, sustained highway driving can significantly reduce an EV’s range. Even with a 200-mile range on a full charge, an EV may only travel 160 miles at highway speeds due to increased wind resistance. Therefore, taking a scenic route with less highway driving can maximize your range.

STRATEGIZE CHARGING STOPS

Although charging infrastructure is expanding, planning charging stops is essential for electric road trips, especially in areas with limited charging stations. Apps such as Plugshare and EVNavigation can assist with route planning and identifying charging locations. Knowing the stops along your route not only eases range anxiety but also allows for spontaneity, such as exploring new destinations.

WARM WEATHER IMPROVES RANGE

EVs can travel further on a single charge in warm weather, which is advantageous for summer road trips as you may exceed the manufacturer’s range estimate. Conversely, colder temperatures can decrease an EV’s range, so expect lower mileage in winter or cooler climates.

UNDERSTAND THE TERMINOLOGY

When it comes to electric vehicles, it’s important to know the terminology. The capacity of the car’s battery is measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh), while the charging speed is measured in kilowatts (kW). You can estimate the charging time based on these figures. For example, a 50 kWh battery will take around one hour to charge at a 50 kW charger.

CHARGING SPEEDS VARY

It’s important to note that even if you use a 50 kW DC fast charger, you might not get the full 50 kW charging speed. This is because your car’s battery management system will slow the charging rate to preserve the battery’s health, particularly during the 0-20% and 80-100% charging stages. Therefore, it may be more time-efficient to charge up to 80% and then hit the road again, rather than waiting for the last 20% which takes significantly longer.

KNOW YOUR MAXIMUM CHARGING SPEED

It’s worth noting that just because a charger has a maximum capacity of 150 kW, it doesn’t necessarily mean your EV can charge at that speed. For instance, the Chevrolet Bolt EV has a maximum charging rate of 50 kW, even if you connect it to a 150 kW charger.

UNDERSTANDING CHARGING COSTS

Charging costs vary, and some charging stations display prices per kilowatt-hour (kWh), while others show prices per minute. There may also be session fees (fees for initiating the charge) and idle fees (to prevent drivers from occupying charging stations without charging). Check online or near the charger for more information on how much charging will cost.

EVEN A SMALL EV IS SUITABLE FOR A ROAD TRIP

Older EV models such as the Ford Focus Electric and BMW i3 can travel up to 115 miles on a full charge. Although this may not seem like much, the feasibility of using these EVs for road trips depends on individual travel preferences. For those who prioritize the destination, a long-range EV is a better choice. However, for those who value the journey, any EV will suffice. Below are some quick tips:

• Look for chargers in interesting places to make the most of your downtime. • Avoid attempting to cover hundreds of miles in a single day. • Stick to country lanes to maximize your vehicle’s range.

CAN IT SAVE YOU MONEY?

If you drive smartly and charge at the right places, an electric road trip has the potential to save you money. Let’s consider the types of chargers available to you.

• Level 1 chargers are the slowest, taking up to 24 hours to charge a vehicle. They are typically found in homes. • Level 2 chargers are destination chargers that are ideal if you plan to stop somewhere for an extended period of time. Look for them in parking lots, shopping centers, and at some attractions. • Level 3 chargers, also known as DC fast chargers, have varying charging speeds. Most can charge a vehicle up to 80% in less than an hour.

As a general rule, the faster the charger, the more expensive it is. Additionally, charging at a busy highway hub will be more costly than at a secluded countryside DC charger.

Charging at a level 2 charger typically costs between $1 to $5 per hour (which provides a range of around 20-30 miles). Level 3 chargers cost anywhere from $10 to $30 per hour but should provide a full charge.

Comparing two similar vehicles, the Hyundai Kona Electric and the 1.6L Hyundai Kona, shows how an electric road trip can save you money.

2020 Hyundai Kona – FWD – 1.6L Turbo Engine:

The cost of driving 25 miles is $3.61, based on average gas prices. However, it is difficult to obtain an average for different charger types. Here’s a breakdown of the three charger levels based on the cost per kWh:

Level 1 charging: $0.10/kWh, resulting in a cost of $0.69 to drive 25 miles. Level 2 charging: $0.20/kWh, resulting in a cost of $1.37 to drive 25 miles. Level 3 charging: $0.40/kWh, resulting in a cost of $2.75 to drive 25 miles.

These figures, based on EPA estimates, average fuel costs, and average electricity prices per charger, demonstrate that electric cars are cheaper to run than gasoline cars. However, it is important to note that some chargers may cost as much as $0.60 per kWh, making it more expensive to go electric, with a cost of $4.12 to drive 25 miles.

Realistically, during a road trip, drivers will stop at various charger stations. To save money, it is best to avoid charging at the expensive ultra-fast chargers.

What about Teslas? Any Tesla purchased before 2017 gets free charging at all Tesla superchargers, making the savings over gas quite clear. For anyone else with a Tesla, the price varies depending on the location. Tesla estimates the average price to be around $0.25 per kWh, which means a 2020 Tesla Model 3 (standard range) will cost around $1.61 to drive 25 miles.

To minimize charging costs on a road trip, consider the following tips:

1. Look for cheaper chargers during planning, and try to stop at locations with more affordable level 2 chargers. Even if you’re limited to DC fast chargers and need the convenience of a quick top-up, choose the more affordable options where possible.
2. Charge your car at your destination. Whether you’re staying at a hotel, cabin, Airbnb, or friend’s house, look for ways to charge your car overnight. Many hotels have chargers, but even a regular household outlet can provide an adequate charge for the next day. While there may be an additional fee for this service, it’s often cheaper than charging on the road.

Investing in classic cars presents a unique opportunity to own a piece of motoring history, but requires careful consideration due to the financial risks involved. Unlike buying new or used cars, which often rapidly depreciate in value, classic cars usually appreciate in value over time, making them a potentially lucrative long-term investment.

Understanding Classic Cars: Distinguishing Between Classic and Old Cars

Classic cars present a unique ownership opportunity but require significant investment in time and resources. First-time buyers should prioritize finding a vehicle that requires minimal restoration, as restoration can be costly and require specialized knowledge. It is important to distinguish between true “classic cars” and simply old cars that may require significant investment without the potential for appreciation in value. Buyers should seek out vehicles that will not rapidly depreciate in value and require constant maintenance.

Selecting the Right Classic Car: Factors to Consider for First-Time Buyers

Abstract: Choosing the right classic car involves considering personal style preferences, while also being aware of the high maintenance and repair costs associated with these vehicles. First-time buyers should select a vehicle that is not excessively rare, as this will make it easier to find affordable parts for maintenance and repairs. Classics from the 1980s are generally a safe choice due to their availability and relatively recent production. Broadening one’s options beyond a specific model can also help ensure a satisfying and feasible ownership experience.

Reviewing Classic Car Insurance Options

Classic car insurance can be significantly more costly than standard auto insurance, but premium rates vary considerably among different brands and models. It is crucial to choose an insurance provider that specializes in covering antique cars, and a comprehensive policy is recommended to safeguard against theft and damage.

Thankfully, insurance rates are often less expensive than anticipated. Since classic cars are typically not used as primary vehicles, insurers are more likely to offer lower premiums.

Understanding Your Mechanical Abilities

When purchasing a classic car, it is essential to take into account your mechanical knowledge and expertise. The nearest reputable mechanic that specializes in vintage automobiles may be far away or unreasonably expensive, so it is necessary to be self-assured enough to perform routine repairs and maintenance independently.

You can save a significant amount of money by maintaining the car yourself, but you may have to make an extra effort to acquire appropriate replacement parts. Luckily, the internet has made it easier to locate elusive replacement parts.

Beware of Rust

If you notice any rust on a classic car that you are interested in, it is advisable to reconsider your decision to purchase it. Even experienced vintage car enthusiasts typically avoid cars with significant rust because the restoration process involves extensive replacement or treatment of the bodywork, which may result in the vehicle losing its original character.

Rusty bodywork is often an indication of more serious underlying problems. If the car has rust on the surface, it likely requires substantial work on the chassis and other components. Furthermore, it implies a history of neglect and inadequate maintenance.

Paint dots on the sidewall of tires are a common sight and serve an important purpose. Manufacturers use red and yellow dots to identify any irregularities in the balance or roundness of the tire during the manufacturing process.

These dots help service technicians to correctly install and balance the tire to ensure maximum driving comfort and safety. The yellow dots mark the lightest point on the tire and should be located next to the valve stem, while the red dots identify the lowest point on the tire and should be placed across from the highest point of the wheel. In case a tire has both yellow and red dots, the red dot is given more importance when balancing the tire. It is essential to note that these dots do not indicate any sale or defect in the tire.
Red and yellow paint dots on tires are commonly seen, and they serve a critical purpose in identifying any irregularities in a tire’s weight, construction, and structure. These inconsistencies can cause vibrations when the tire is spinning, negatively affecting ride quality, fuel economy, and braking effectiveness. A hopping tire or unbalanced wheel can lose full contact with the road surface, generating less friction when braking and increasing stopping distance. Wheel balancing is a process that identifies the location(s) where weights need to be placed to eliminate vibrations and help tires roll smoothly. Out-of-balance tires may develop dangerous bald spots and shorten tire life, which can also cause premature suspension component failures. Dynamic and match-balancing are two common types of wheel balancing. Match-balancing is critical for smooth tire operation, especially when wheels lack markings. This paper explains the importance of paint dots on tires and wheel balancing to enhance driving comfort and safety.
Red and yellow paint dots on tires indicate inconsistencies in weight, construction, and structure. These dots play a crucial role in identifying any issues that can cause tires to vibrate when spinning. Vibrating, unbalanced tires can have a negative impact on ride quality, fuel economy, and braking effectiveness, among other things. Such issues make it difficult to control your vehicle, especially at high speeds, and can increase stopping distance. A hopping tire or unbalanced wheel loses full contact with the road surface, which reduces the friction when braking, and can lead to dangerous bald spots that shorten tire life.
Wheel balancing is the process of identifying the location(s) where weights need to be placed to eliminate vibrations and help tires roll smoothly. Out-of-balance tires can cause premature suspension component failures and shorten tire life. Dynamic balancing involves adding wheel weights to counteract tire imbalance that results in tire hop. Match-balancing, on the other hand, matches the tire’s low point to its wheel’s high point, providing a smooth ride.
It’s essential to ask your tire installation professional if their wheel balancing equipment can match-balance tires, especially when the wheels lack any markings. This is important since matching the tire’s low point to its wheel’s high point provides a smooth ride. Since tires are expensive, it’s essential to ensure that they’re mounted and balanced correctly to maximize their lifespan.
In conclusion, the red and yellow paint dots on tires play a vital role in ensuring that tires are mounted and balanced correctly. Wheel balancing is a critical process in enhancing driving comfort and safety by eliminating vibrations and helping tires roll smoothly. With the information presented in this paper, it’s essential to ask your tire installation professional if their wheel balancing equipment can match-balance tires, especially when the wheels lack markings, to avoid issues that may arise due to unbalanced tires.
Tires can become unbalanced when the weight distribution around the tires and wheels is disrupted. Some possible causes include:
The tire/wheel assembly becomes lighter as the tires wear down over time.
Tires are over or under-inflated, affecting the weight distribution around the tire.
Improper wheel alignment, resulting in abnormal tire wear.
Loss of a wheel weight.
Improper tire or wheel repair.
Replacement of a leaky valve stem.
Flat spots may occur due to prolonged parking or driving in cold conditions.
Long periods of parking in one spot.
Wheel damage caused by hitting a pothole or bouncing into a curb.
To prolong tire life and promote even wear, tire pressure should be checked regularly, and tire/wheels should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles. However, if you experience vibrations while driving, it is recommended to have your tires balanced by a professional.

Electric vehicles (EVs) are often touted as cost-saving alternatives to internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicles due to their lower operating costs and reduced maintenance requirements. Consumer Reports has found that EVs cost less to operate over their lifetimes than their ICE counterparts, thanks to cheaper electricity and fewer moving parts that wear out, reducing maintenance. However, while EVs do not require oil, air, or fuel filter changes, they still require periodic maintenance for components such as brakes, rotors, and wiper blades.

Despite the cost-saving benefits of owning an EV, there are hidden costs to consider. For instance, according to Kelley Blue Book, as of September 2022, the average EV costs nearly $17,000 more than a comparable ICE vehicle. However, AAA estimates that EV owners can save up to $1,300 in annual maintenance costs and an additional $700 to $800 in fuel costs compared to their ICE counterparts. Assuming an average ownership period of almost nine years, this translates to savings of nearly $19,000.
However, there are additional costs to consider when purchasing an EV, such as higher annual car insurance premiums (up to $400 more than a comparable ICE model) and potential voiding of the manufacturer’s warranty if owners perform their own repairs or use non-authorized repair shops. These factors can result in costlier repair bills. As such, it is essential to consider all of the potential costs and benefits before making a decision to purchase an EV.
When considering the cost of electric vehicle (EV) charging stations, it is important to take into account the kilowatt (kW) output and features of the charger. Level 1 120-volt battery chargers typically cost between $200 and $600, while Level 2 240-volt chargers range from $500 to $2000, plus installation costs if hardwiring is necessary, which can also range from $500 to $2000.
How Much Does It Cost to Charge an Electric Vehicle?
The cost of charging an electric vehicle (EV) depends on various factors, such as the level of charger used, location, time of day, temperature, and the state of battery charge or degradation. Based on the national average cost of electricity, which was 17 cents per kilowatt-hour (kWh) in 2021, an EV with an Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) rating of 50 kWh/100 miles would cost $8.50 to travel 100 miles, or 8.5 cents per mile. In comparison, a traditional internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle getting 30 miles per gallon at $3.50 per gallon would cost $11.67 for the same 100 miles, or 11.7 cents per mile. While some public EV charging stations are free, rates for Level 3 and Level 2 charging stations typically range from 30 to 70 cents per kWh and 20 to 25 cents per kWh, respectively. Some stations offer a monthly subscription service, but fees may be charged for vehicles that remain plugged in after charging is complete.
The cost to replace an EV battery, which is typically covered under warranty for at least eight years or 100,000 miles, ranges from $5,000 to $15,000 or more in parts and labor if the vehicle is out of warranty. With proper care, an average EV battery should last 200,000 miles, or 10 to 20 years. While EV batteries are recyclable, the process is slow, complex, expensive and environmentally unfriendly. However, new technologies and second-life applications funded by the Bipartisan Infrastructure Law offer hope for more economical and ecologically responsible EV battery recycling in the future.
Expect to pay $100 to $400 more for a set of tires for an EV than for regular tires, as they are designed to carry the extra weight of an EV’s battery and motors. EV tires offer excellent acceleration, better traction, less rolling resistance, and a quieter ride due to their ability to deliver instant torque to the wheels/tires.