Truck

California lawmakers have recently introduced new regulations to combat the negative effects of greenhouse gases on the environment. According to the EPA, carbon dioxide accounts for approximately 65% of all greenhouse gases that are currently affecting the environment, and the burning of fossil fuels is largely responsible for this. To mitigate the damage of greenhouse gas-related global warming, governments are implementing measures to reduce the burning of fossil fuels. In California, new laws have been introduced to promote public health and reduce environmental impact. These laws will significantly reduce and eventually eliminate diesel engine trucks throughout the state. Diesel vehicles produce more emissions per unit of fuel burned than gasoline vehicles, making them a target for the new legislation. The state has also made other recent decisions related to vehicle emissions. Read on for more information.

What are the Basics of California’s New Ban on Diesel Trucks?

California lawmakers have put into effect a new regulation that will outlaw the sale of new diesel-burning semi-trucks across the state by 2036. In addition, they have also implemented a law that all trucks registered in California must be zero-emissions by 2042.

The new rule applies to all heavy-duty vehicles, including transport, commercial, and garbage trucks. Collectively known as the “Advanced Clean Fleets rule,” this law is the first of its kind in the world.

The main objective of the Advanced Clean Fleets rule is to minimize air pollution. According to the Union of Concerned Scientists, medium and heavy-duty trucks make up only one-tenth of all vehicles on U.S. roads but are responsible for a quarter of all greenhouse gas emissions from human transportation.

Big-rig trucks alone account for over 25% of California’s diesel-related fine particle pollution and one-third of the state’s nitrogen oxide emissions, as per the California Air Resources Board. Aside from its environmental advantages, reducing these harmful emissions as planned will also enhance public health in California, with an expected savings of over $26 million attributed to decreased pollution-related illnesses.

How Will the New Law Be Implemented in California? The new law in California stipulates that all drayage trucks in the state must be zero-emissions by 2035, and new ones sold must be emission-free starting in 2024. School buses and garbage trucks must also be zero-emissions by 2027. Other vehicles that fall under the scope of the new law must be replaced with electric or hydrogen models by no later than 2042.

Reliable Breaker Bar Set Overcomes Resistant Fasteners with Ease

In our endeavors to loosen stubborn bolts of various sizes, the Craftsman Breaker Bar Set has proven to be an invaluable tool.

While a high-quality socket set is often sufficient for most jobs involving challenging nuts or bolts, certain tasks require additional torque. These include removing the blades of a lawn mower for sharpening or taking off lug nuts when performing tire rotations on a vehicle.

Having encountered difficulties in removing two seized blades from my father-in-law’s lawn tractor, I sought assistance by acquiring the Craftsman Three-Piece Flex Handle Breaker Bar Set from a nearby home center. Over the Labor Day weekend, I brought the set to his property, aiming to successfully extract and sharpen the tractor blades.

Craftsman Three-Piece Flex Handle Breaker Bar Set: An Overview

The Craftsman Three-Piece Flex Handle Breaker Bar Set is a collection of robust and versatile tools designed for handling stubborn fasteners. These breaker bars are non-ratcheting bars that work in conjunction with sockets, providing increased torque to tackle tightly secured fasteners.

The set includes three breaker bars constructed from heavy-duty steel alloy, tailored for 1/4-, 3/8-, and 1/2-inch drive sockets. Each bar features a 180-degree rotating head equipped with wave washer joints, ensuring consistent resistance throughout the entire range of motion. The different sizes available include a 15-inch bar for the 1/2-inch drive, a 10-inch bar for the 3/8-inch drive, and a six-inch bar for the 1/4-inch drive.

Crafted with a chrome-plated finish, the Craftsman Three-Piece Flex Handle Breaker Bar Set exudes durability and quality craftsmanship. As with all Craftsman hand tools, this set is backed by a lifetime warranty, providing assurance of its long-lasting performance.

Evaluation Process and Findings

To assess the performance of the Craftsman Three-Piece Flex Handle Breaker Bar Set, I conducted a series of tests involving lawn mower blade sharpening and tire rotations. Equipped with an angle grinder, sockets, and the breaker bar set, I aimed to maximize productivity during the extended weekend.

I initiated the testing by focusing on my father-in-law’s lawn tractor, aiming to remove two worn-out blades using the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar. Initially, I attempted to loosen the blades solely with the nine-inch socket wrench handle. However, both blades necessitated the utilization of the 15-inch breaker bar, with one requiring the additional leverage of a pipe.

The inclusion of a 180-degree rotating head proved advantageous, facilitating easy alignment with the target nut. This feature proved particularly useful as I maneuvered the socket, breaker bar, and extended pipe to release the seized lawn tractor spindle.

Significance of Length in Breaker Bars

Effective breaker bars necessitate meticulous construction and adequate length. The 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch breaker bars in the set were nearly identical in length to my existing ratchet handles. Although they may prove useful in the future, acquiring this set becomes redundant if I can generate the same torque with my current tools.

In contrast, the 1/2-inch breaker bar, while longer than my ratchet handle, still fell short in terms of length (15 inches). Although it sufficed for my current tasks, I would have preferred an 18-, 24-, or 30-inch variation to enhance torque delivery through increased length.

Nevertheless, the Craftsman Three-Piece Flex Handle Breaker Bar Set successfully facilitated the removal of six lawn mower blades and the tire rotation of two vehicles. The torque provided by the bars was generally satisfactory, except for one lawn tractor blade where the additional length of the pipe was required.

Among the tools in the set, I predominantly utilized the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar due to its extended length and compatibility with my existing set of 1/2-inch drive sockets. My only reservation pertains to its relatively shorter length, as a slightly longer version would render this set ideal.

The answer may come as a surprise: the distinctive black color of tires is due to a crucial ingredient that greatly enhances their efficiency and overall durability.

Tires and wheels serve as a vehicle’s fashion accessories. According to the Online Etymology Dictionary, “tire” is derived from “attire,” meaning the decoration of a wheel.

As time, trends, and preferences evolve, so does the appearance of tires and wheels. In the 19th century, tires were made of solid rubber, while today’s tires are air-filled radials. A century ago, tires were typically white in color, whereas most tires on the road today are black.

Are Tires Naturally Black?

No.

Natural rubber, which is one of the main constituents of tires, is a white, milky latex. The first mass-produced inflatable auto, bicycle, and motorcycle tires were white, but did not last.

Today, up to 200 ingredients go into the manufacture of modern tires. Refined carbon black, a byproduct of incomplete combustion of coal and oil, is a crucial one.

Why Are Tires Black?

Tire manufacturers discovered that adding carbon black, polyester, metal, and other synthetic rubber compounds to natural latex helps tires perform better and last longer. Without carbon black, tires would not last 5,000 miles, according to Jack L. Koenig in his book, Spectroscopy of Polymers. It also gives tires their black color.

In addition to substantially increasing tire mileage and durability, carbon black:

• Shields tires against dry rot.
• Enhances handling, stability, braking, and fuel economy.
• Rapidly dissipates heat from a tire’s core and treads, extending lifespan.
• Disperses static electricity. In today’s vehicles full of highly sensitive electronics, static electricity can quickly damage expensive electronic equipment.
• Makes tires easier to maintain clean and shiny.

Why Aren’t Tires Available in Colors Besides Black?

They used to be. However, people did not purchase them.

Orange, blue, yellow, and green tires functioned the same as their black counterparts and met all U.S. standards for road safety and performance. However, they never became popular.

BFGoodrich once offered tires with colorful treads. According to Michelin, BFGoodrich’s parent company, in the 1950s, Goodyear produced tires of different colors to match your car, so drivers could match their fancy evening attire.

Goodyear also created tires from translucent material with lights inside! However, none of them were successful. Colorful tires, like white tires, got dirty quickly. They were also expensive. Without carbon black, people were not eager to pay extra for something that would not last long.

Today, white tires for antique vehicles are readily available. So are wide whitewall tires, made from the original molds to ensure authenticity when restoring classic and collector vehicles.

Tires with raised white letters, narrow whitewalls, and thin red-striped sidewalls can be found for custom applications. Pirelli produces tires for ultra-high-end vehicles with different colored sidewalls, lettering, and stripes, using similar compounds and production processes as their F1 racing car tires.

This selection of 12 truck accessories offers practical and technologically advanced solutions that improve efficiency and safety, keeping pace with the latest features found in high-end pickups.

Triple-Ball Trailer Hitch.This truck accessory may not be technologically advanced, but it is highly innovative. Rather than carrying a set of hitches with common ball sizes in your truck, this hitch is adjustable and includes a ball for all three common sizes (1-7/8 inch, 2 inch, and 2-5/16 inch). The hitch is designed to fit into a 2-inch receiver and has weight ratings that correspond to the size of the ball.
Wireless Back-Up Camera.In-dash backup screens are fairly standard these days, but if your older truck is not equipped with one, you can add a wireless back-up camera that displays through your phone or tablet. Many models are available: the one shown here uses rechargeable batteries and mounts directly to your rear license plate frame. You will need to download an accompanying app, but the installation of this water-resistant device is quick and easy.
GPS Speedometer and Trip Mileage Gauge.Engine-based speedometers can be inaccurate enough to risk a ticket, if you can even see and read them at all. This heads-up display GPS-based speedometer mounts to your dash with a 4-1/2-inch-wide screen and large, high-visibility numbers that allow you to keep your eyes on the road. It can be recalibrated if necessary and has several additional useful features, including recording trip time and mileage to assist with billing and reimbursement, lighter plug-in, so no batteries are needed, and an over-speed alert.
Ionic Air Purifier.From time to time, you may need to give a client or customer a ride in your truck. A little evergreen air freshener dangling from your rear-view mirror is not up to the challenge of masking the odor of work, your dog, and the sandwich you had for lunch. Fortunately, a high-tech accessory is available to help. The ionic air purifier shown here fits into a cupholder and plugs into a lighter port. It works the same way as a home ionic purifier, sending negative ion particles into the air to help purify it. It even has dual USB charging ports.
Long Cord Adapter Splitter.Many two- or three-socket 12V splitters for lighter ports are available. They all reduce clutter and expand capacity. But things can get pretty cluttered around the console with all those devices plugged in. The solution is to look for a splitter with an extension cord. You will find many ranging from one to three sockets and with cords anywhere from 3 to 14 feet. Use this to recharge tools in the back seat or even give the crew access to a plug-in phone charger while you drive.
No-Drill Mud Flaps.A few years ago, WeatherTech introduced aftermarket mud flaps that can be installed without the need to drill into the fender or any other part of your truck. The advantage, of course, is that you do not penetrate the metal and finish in a very vulnerable area of your truck body. But they are also fast and easy to install using the original equipment bolts in the truck (you also do not need to remove the tire or even jack up the truck). Because they are custom-designed, you need to order a set that is specific to the make and model of your truck, which is easy to do online.
Hands-Free Bluetooth Speaker.If you do not have the ability to make or take calls hands-free in your truck, consider investing in a Bluetooth speaker. Not only is it the safest way to drive and talk, it is also required by law in many states. Look for a speaker that can be mounted inside the cab and is out of the way, especially if you spend a lot of time in your truck and take frequent calls. There are many options available, including ones that cling to your sun visor. The higher-quality speakers have sound quality that far exceeds that of your phone or even an earpiece.
Console Security.If you transport valuable items in your truck, security is always a concern. To alleviate your worries, you may want to invest in an aftermarket lockbox that mounts inside the console of your truck. You can search online for options that match your truck make, model, and year, or inquire at your truck dealership. For example, the Tuffy model is designed for 2010-to-current Dodge Rams.
Bluetooth Adapter for Cassette.If you are driving an older truck, you may be interested in this Bluetooth adapter that can plug into your cassette deck. This will allow you to connect your phone or other Bluetooth device to your truck’s sound system.
Tonneau Cover Lights.Even when your tonneau cover is fully closed, you can still find your way around your truck bed with these simple peel-and-stick LED light strips that run on AA batteries. While you do need to turn them on with a small switch, they will automatically shut off after five minutes. The manufacturer recommends using one strip under each bed rail.
The Truck Fridge.This thermoelectric refrigerator doubles as a heater and can be plugged into standard AC outlets indoors or into your lighter port adapter for DC power. Although it is not large, holding only a six-pack, it is useful for keeping items cool or warm. The device bounces heat between the two compartments, depending on whether you are in heating or cooling mode.
OSHA-Approved First Aid Kit.While a first aid kit may not be the most exciting truck accessory, it is an important one to have. Some kits, such as the ones seen here, meet the guidelines set out by OSHA and ANSI, and if you employ a crew, it is essential to have one. Even if you work alone, a well-equipped first aid kit could be a lifesaver.

To keep your vehicle in good condition and avoid costly repairs, pay attention to warning lights and unusual noises or smells.

Warning lights on modern vehicles can indicate problems with multiple systems, so it’s important to address them promptly. Routine maintenance is also critical, as it helps to prevent issues from arising and prolongs the life of the vehicle. Unusual noises, such as squealing, screeching, grinding, rumbling, clicking or clunking, can indicate problems with the drive belt, pump, engine bearing, brakes, suspension, constant velocity joints, wheel bearings, or tires. Ignoring these noises can lead to further damage and costly repairs. Similarly, ignoring unusual smells, such as an oily burning smell, can indicate leaks that can cause damage to engine, transmission, or power steering components, and even result in a fire. Addressing warning lights, unusual noises, and smells promptly can help prevent more serious issues from arising.
Unusual smells can indicate potential problems with a vehicle, such as burning rubber from a failing drive-belt system or brakes that are not operating properly, which can result in engine damage, overheating, and accidents. Ignoring these smells can lead to higher repair bills. Therefore, a pre-purchase inspection by a professional mechanic is recommended to identify hidden issues that cannot be detected during a cursory check. This inspection involves scanning the vehicle’s computers, test driving the vehicle while monitoring computer data, performing physical checks, and testing various systems. After receiving a full report of the results and recommended repairs, the buyer can proceed with the purchase, renegotiate the price, or walk away. It is also advised to avoid brake job “specials” and drive on worn tires, as they can increase the risk of accidents and end up costing more in the long run.
Tire wear below 4/32 inches reduces traction and increases stopping distance, resulting in increased hydroplaning on wet pavement. Replacing tires at 4/32 tread depth provides extra safety margin and reduces skidding on wet pavement. Driving an overheated aluminum engine for even 5 minutes can cause total head gasket failure, leading to expensive repairs or even engine replacement. Large wet oily stains on your driveway indicate a fluid leak and low fluid levels can cause early engine, transmission and power steering failure. Bring your own auto parts online and asking the shop to install them for only the cost of labor is not recommended.
Auto repair shops, like any other retail service business, make a profit from labor and parts. When customers bring their own parts, shops may refuse to install them or charge a surcharge or higher labor rate to make up for the lost profit. Additionally, shops may not cover labor if the customer-provided part fails while under warranty. Despite common beliefs, auto repair shops’ profit margins are similar to other retail service businesses and are much lower than industries such as clothing, restaurants, furniture, and optical. Charging a diagnostic fee is necessary because diagnosing a problem requires a skilled technician to consult a database of technical service bulletins, conduct multiple tests, and use specialized equipment. Shops may charge higher fees for this service to cover specialized equipment and ongoing training. Customers who tell shops what to fix based on their own diagnosis may put shops in a difficult situation. Shop supply charges are based on an average charge to cover the cost of supplies, rather than tracking the exact price for each repair.
Some shops may include the cost of shop supplies in their hourly labor rate, which can make them appear uncompetitive compared to nearby shops that don’t. To avoid this, some shops bill separately for shop supplies, but this can result in customer complaints. Nevertheless, shop supplies are a legitimate cost directly related to vehicle repair, and customers will ultimately have to pay for them. Shop owners do not profit greatly from shop supplies charges.

Maintaining a clean car is important, as mechanics may need to access different parts of the car, and a cluttered car may cause delays. It is also important for customers to provide all necessary information about their car to mechanics, as withholding information can make diagnosing and fixing problems take longer.

Switching between reverse and drive while the car is in motion can damage the vehicle. Automatic transmission vehicles have a transmission selector switch that signals the computer to engage reverse gear, while on manual transmission vehicles, misadjusted shift linkage or damaged shift cables can prevent the reverse gear from engaging properly.

Haggling over repair prices is generally not appreciated by mechanics, as pricing reflects the time and expertise required for the job. Calling repeatedly for updates may also slow down the repair process, as mechanics are often busy working on multiple cars.

Not driving the car at all can cause problems, as the car is designed to be used regularly. If the car will be parked for an extended period, a smart charger like the Battery Tender Junior can help maintain the battery charge. Finally, it is crucial to put fluids in the correct locations in the car to avoid costly damage.

Consider these recommendations and learn from prior errors before beginning an engine oil change. Although some of these suggestions may appear self-evident, they can all make your DIY oil changes go a lot more smoothly.

Preparation is key. Reviewing the car manual before performing any maintenance is a no-brainer, but it’s also a good idea to examine the car itself the day before the oil change. Are there any other pieces blocking access to your oil filter, and if so, what instruments will you require to safely remove and reinstall them?

Newer vehicles typically have oil filters near the top, but older models are not always designed with convenience in mind. My first two cars, both mid-1990s Fords, had oil filters buried deep beneath several hoses. Accessing those filters took a lot of trial and error and ended up taking more time than the actual draining and replacing of the oil itself.

When lifting the car, avoid soft metal or plastic. Most cars have notches or a jacking plate where you can safely lift the car with your jack. If your car has a jacking plate underneath the engine, be sure to triple-check that your jack is not touching anything else beneath the hood.

Both steel and aluminum jacks are acceptable. Aluminum jacks have a reputation for being weaker and less secure than steel, but they will function just as well. If you’re on a tight budget, steel jacks are less expensive than aluminum. In any case, either material will suffice.

When changing the oil filter, apply oil to the filter seal. You can do this using a dab of oil on your fingertip. This step is important because it helps to keep the seal in place when you start the engine. I received a stern lecture from my father the first time I attempted to do an oil change solo and tried to skip this step.

Place a metal drip pan underneath the oil collection container to protect the garage floor or driveway. It’s light, easy to clean, and even makes sliding the container around easier because you can (slowly) slide the sheet around without being under the car.

Use an oil collection container that can also be used for transportation. Make sure to use a collection container that is essentially a portable jug. Pouring used oil from a collection pan into a wobbly funnel, which is sure to make a mess, is not a good idea.

Do not dispose of the used oil filter in the trash. My father threw used oil filters straight into the trash, but now they can be recycled once the oil has been removed. Drain the oil from the used filter by puncturing the top dome with a screwdriver. Then, let the oil drain into your collection container. iRecycleOil.com, a directory provided by Earth911, will tell you where you can recycle used oil and oil filters.

Check out these tips and learn from past mistakes before you pop the hood to change your engine oil. Some of these tips may seem obvious, but all will make your DIY oil changes a lot smoother.

It’s All in the Prep Work
Reading the car manual before doing any maintenance is a no-brainer, but it’s also helpful to study the car itself the day before you plan to change the oil. Are there any other parts blocking access to your oil filter? And if so, what tools will you need to safely move them out of the way and reinstall them?
Newer cars have the oil filter up towards the top, but older models aren’t always designed with convenience in mind. Accessing those oil filters took a lot of trial and error and ended up taking more time than the actual draining and replacing of the oil itself.
Don’t Jack Up the Car on Soft Metal or Plastic
Most cars have notches or a jacking plate where you can safely contact the car with your jack. If your car has a jacking plate underneath the engine, be sure to use a flashlight to check multiple times that your car jack isn’t contacting anything else under the hood.
The car I’m driving now is my first car with a jacking plate instead of notches. When attempting to jack it up for the first time, I made contact with my windshield wiper fluid reservoir, which of course cracked and leaked wiper fluid everywhere. D’oh!
To prevent the car from rolling away, a brick or piece of wood can be used to brace the rear wheel opposite the jack stands, while the parking brake should also be engaged.
Both steel and aluminum jacks are appropriate for use. Despite the common perception that aluminum is less strong and safe than steel, aluminum jack stands perform well. If budget is a concern, steel jacks are less expensive. In summary, either material is suitable.
Applying oil to the filter seal is a critical step as it helps to keep the seal in place when the engine starts. It can be done by applying a small amount of oil to the fingertip and spreading it evenly over the seal. Skipping this step could lead to oil leaks, prompting a stern lecture from an experienced mentor or mechanic.
Use a lightweight metal drip pan to protect the garage or driveway floor while working on the vehicle. This also makes it easier to move the oil collection container without having to crawl underneath the car.
An oil collection container that is easy to transport should be used to avoid spills and mess. Pouring used oil from a collection pan into a wobbly funnel can be a messy affair.
Do not throw away used oil filters in the trash. Rather, drain the oil from the used filter by puncturing the top dome with a screwdriver and allowing the oil to drain into the collection container. Used oil filters can now be recycled.

This paper presents a low-cost solution to generate power for corded tools without the need for a gas-powered generator. By installing a power inverter to your truck battery, you can have access to an AC receptacle wherever you go.

Materials Required:
To implement this solution, the following materials are required: 1-in. chase nipples and bushings, 1/0 cable (red and black), 100Ah valve regulated lead acid (VRLA) absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery (optional), 200 amp fuse block/fuse kit, DC to AC inverter, flexible plastic conduit, isolation relay (for optional second battery), and basic hand tools.
Installing an AC inverter in your truck can provide up to 1,800 watts of power, making it an ideal source for plug-in tools. The basic setup is inexpensive, costing around $450, while the upscale version with an auxiliary battery and isolator relay costs around $700. The installation process takes only a few hours and requires simple hand tools. By installing three fuse blocks – one between the main battery and the relay, another after the relay, and the third between the auxiliary battery and the inverter, the system is well protected.
Component Procurement
First, install 1-inch chase nipples and locknuts into the holes in the bed and the box. Thread the “smurf” tube and cable through the nipples and connect them to the inverter. There are two types of AC inverters available, modified sine wave and pure sine wave, with the former being less expensive and suitable for power tools, while the latter is suitable for powering computers, televisions, or portable tool battery chargers. Ensure that the pure sine wave inverter has overload, over-temperature, over-and-under voltage and fault protection, as well as neutral isolation.

Additionally, you will need a 200-amp fuse block/fuse kit (two if adding a second battery and three if adding a battery isolator), and separate lengths of 1/0 cable for positive and negative connections. Although optional, adding a 100Ah valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA) absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery prevents alternator overheating and helps maintain voltage under heavy loads. An isolation relay can also be installed at the same time to prevent draining the main battery.

Selecting a Mounting Location
To prevent overheating, mount the inverter in a location with sufficient airflow, such as the truck bed toolbox or on the floor behind the driver’s seat. It is also recommended to keep the toolbox lid or cab door open when using the inverter.
Cable Installation
As each vehicle has unique characteristics, there is no universal scheme for cable routing. Nevertheless, it is essential to ensure that both cables are kept clear of the engine block, pulleys, steering components, exhaust manifold, and pipes. A separate negative cable should be run from the inverter to the main battery. To safeguard the cables, especially the positive one, from damage under the vehicle, they should be encased in a flexible 3/4-inch plastic conduit, often referred to as “smurf” conduit by electricians. This product, such as the Carlon Flex-Plus Blue, is obtainable in 10-foot lengths at home centers in the electrical department. Two 1-inch holes need to be drilled in the truck bed and two in the toolbox to mount electrical fittings (see Photo 1). The inverter should then be installed.

Optionally, the battery isolation relay can be installed under the hood and the trigger wire connected to a switch-powered “hot” wire. The optional auxiliary battery should be mounted close to the inverter. Refer to Figure A for the comprehensive wiring diagram.
Battery Connection
Fuse block should be secured
Clamp the cable ring terminals with serrated washers, install the fuse, and tighten the nut. Then attach the positive cable to a fuse block before connecting it to the battery. Finally, connect the negative cable to the battery to complete the installation process.

We interviewed construction professionals to determine the essential items they store in their truck. The aim was to establish the quantity and type of equipment contractors and tradespeople commonly carry in their truck cabs. We spoke with experts from various trades and were surprised to find that their lists were remarkably similar. We identified over 60 items, which did not include trade-specific tools such as saws, drills, and hammers.

Emergency Construction Gear.When equipment or tools fail, break, or stop functioning, you must be prepared. The items in this category facilitate restarting or relocating the faulty equipment while ensuring your safety. Survival gear such as food, blankets, and rope were not popular among the professionals we interviewed, but carrying a lighter was, even among non-smokers. Tire plug kits warrant their own category, and we delve into them in greater detail below. While compact inflators were not all that popular due to their recent entry into the market, those who carried them appreciated them greatly.
Essentials for Tire Care.Building and remodeling a house involves a significant number of screws and nails. Therefore, flat tires are a common occurrence. A complete tire plug kit will pay for itself the first time it is used. We acknowledge that tire experts recommend against plugging a tire from the outside and that plugging a tire on the sidewall is inadvisable and usually ineffective. However, we know that many truck owners have plugged at least a few holes over the years. One professional we spoke to claimed that he had plugged a minimum of fifty tires, including his own and those of others, without any failures, safety concerns, or detrimental effects on the overall life of the tires.
The Essential Construction First Aid Kit.Obtain an inexpensive first aid kit, add some high-quality bandages and a bottle of ibuprofen, aspirin, or your preferred painkiller. Ensure that you include a bottle of eye drops to flush any foreign particles from your eyes, as well as a good quality pair of tweezers to remove slivers. Lip balm is necessary, but always purchase the tube rather than the stick since the latter can turn into a gooey mess on a 95-degree day.
Gear for Working Smarter.Keeping a flashlight on hand is essential, but one with a built-in laser pointer is even more practical. A good headlamp is irreplaceable when it’s dark and you still require both your hands. Lithium batteries are an excellent option for powering small lights because they have a shelf life of up to 20 years. If only our truck batteries lasted that long! Some newer trucks come with AC outlets built right in, while others do not. If you frequently work on powerless job sites, invest in a small inverter to ensure you always have a way to charge the batteries that power your cordless tools.
Gear for Maintaining Cleanliness.Construction work is often a dirty job, but it’s important to maintain personal hygiene to present a professional appearance. Carrying a comb, wipes, and deodorant can go a long way in keeping oneself presentable. It’s also important to have mints or gum on hand to prevent bad breath. Many professionals use their trucks as a multifunctional space, such as an office, break room, and repair shop. Carrying a garbage can or bag can help prevent a messy work environment.
Essential Safety Equipment.Ensuring jobsite safety is crucial not only for immediate work but also for long-term health. Carrying spare earplugs, safety glasses, and dust masks can help protect the body from negative impacts after years of labor.
Essential Workwear.The types of workwear carried vary based on the trade, but it’s important to have extra and different kinds of gloves on hand for various work conditions. Thin, tight-fitting gloves work best for small hardware or wires, while thick sturdy gloves are more suitable for rough construction or demolition. Dry socks and disposable ponchos are also important. Sunglasses and old prescription eyeglasses that can get scratched or splattered with paint are recommended.
Towing Equipment.Carrying all three common size ball mounts (7/8-inch, 2-inch, 2-5/16-inch) is a good idea for hauling a trailer. It’s crucial to ensure that the truck, receiver, and ball mount are rated to haul the trailer. Carrying an adapter that converts a 7-way RV to a 4-way flat or vice versa is also important.
Hauling Equipment.Carrying four tie-down straps and about a half-dozen bungees is recommended to keep items secured. A red flag is also necessary. Stretch-film is a popular tool for holding items together for hauling and for wrangling together many of the other items mentioned in this article. Tool bags and toolboxes are common ways to store hauling gear.
Essential Tool Kits.Carrying a separate set of tools in the cab at all times is not uncommon and can vary depending on the trade.

According to the Foundation for Traffic Safety of the American Automobile Association, poorly secured loads are responsible for over 25,000 crashes and around 90 fatalities annually in the United States.

Additionally, there are non-fatal injuries to drivers and damage to their vehicles. If something falls off your truck and injures someone, you will be held liable. We consulted with experts and loaded our pickup truck with common DIY materials from a local home center to demonstrate proper ways to secure loads. The tie-down methods we present may seem excessive, but securing a load is not just about getting it home safely; it’s about preventing harm to others. These methods can also be used when transporting furniture and household items, which can cause injury if not properly secured. We also present 11 truck bed hacks for creative ideas. Rule number one for securing your load is to purchase heavy-duty 15-foot ratchet straps (a minimum of four) with a load limit of 1,000 pounds and a break strength of 3,000 pounds. While rope and bungee cords may suffice if you drive slowly and avoid bumps or accidents, they are unreliable when you need to swerve or make a sudden stop.
Avoid flimsy straps and invest in heavy-duty ratchet straps (1-1/4 inches or wider). Store the straps in a box in the cab to protect them from moisture and sunlight. When transporting flimsy materials, such as drip edges, flashing, plastic conduit, or siding, wrap both ends with stretch cling film to prevent damage during transportation. For fragile bundles that include lumber, wrap the bundle with the cling film for added support.
When hauling long boards, avoid resting them on a raised gate and use two or more ratchet straps along the bottom of the truck bed. Load the heaviest and longest lumber over the straps and stack shorter lengths on top. Secure the cab end, the middle, and the trailing end with the straps, and anchor the bundle to the truck bed with two additional ratchet straps, crisscrossing them across the load and attaching one end to the cab end anchor rings and the other end to the farthest bundle strap.
For hauling sheet goods with the tailgate down, use two ratchet straps across the truck bed and at least two 12-ft. 2x4s to help support the overhang and protect the sheet goods from any water, rocks, or debris on the truck bed. Use cardboard corners to protect the edges of the sheet goods, then tighten the bottom straps to secure the bundle. Finally, run two straps from the truck bed anchor rings around the back edge of the sheets and down to the bumper.
When transporting bulky loads, use a cargo net to secure the materials. Purchase a cargo net at a home center or online and snap the retainer clips into the anchor points on the bed. For light 8- to 10-ft. loads, the tailgate can be up but still needs to be secured. Use ratchet straps on the bundle in two places and secure each end to the anchor rings on the bed.
Required tools for this project include ratchet straps, a cargo net, and leather gloves.